There U.S. standards for tap water quality (and I am sure that other countries like the United Kingdom have their own regulatory action), but that does not mean that these levels are allowed safe for the fish (or people for that matter). This article examines the impact of permitted substances in tap water for fish.
Chlorine and CHLORAMINES:
To start with most city tap water has chlorine, an oxidizer that (a chemical substance that gains electrons in a redox chemical reaction), but this can kill fish by burning their gills and their blood poisoning. Some municipalities use chloramines because they are more stable than chlorine. Chloramines are a chemical compound of chlorine and ammonia and can not be cooked or our permitted to sit for a few days to remove them before the water in an aquarium. You'll have to remove chloramines chemical that tap water before adding it to your aquarium. Standard de-Chlorinators such as "Start Right Water Conditioner" will remove the chlorine, but the ammonia (NH4) for both your bio filtration or Zeolite (freshwater only) be removed. This basic de-chlorinating products are simple Reduce Reinforce Couples (sodium thiosulfate) and are very safe, even overdosed in contrast to some opinions floating around. Products such as Amquel or "Prime-(Removes ammonia, chlorine, chloramines, ammonia)" will remove the chlorine and neutralizes the ammonia (and more). Prime is made of Hydrosulfite salts which are in fact a non-toxic agents composed of bisulfites and hydrosulfites, aqueous solution, buffered at pH 8. As mentioned earlier, reducing agents are in principle not opposed to a reasonable doses toxic to fish and aquatic animals. See my article "Aquarium redox potential; How they relate to aquatic good health"
INORGANIC CHEMICALS, nitrites, nitrates, copper, phosphate and fluoride:
Nitrites are allowed to 1 ppm, even at this level, there may be some damage to fish gills. Methyl Blue can be used for the treatment of nitrite poisoning, but it is best to prevent this. A good bio-filter will generally remove traces of it from tap water, as well as products such as Prime.
Nitrates are allowed up to 10 ppm, even at this level studies in human infants younger than 6 months can become ill and suffer symptoms such as Blue Baby Syndrome. Now this level, has no bad effect on all fish studies I have seen, but levels above 20 ppm can harm some marine cephalopods. It is because in many marine aquariums to use RO water mix to mix up your salt or top off for evaporation so hard not to add to the removal of nitrates in your aquarium sea.
Other explanations are allowed chemicals Copper-1, 3 ppm, Phosphates (no standards) and Fluoride-4, 0 ppm. Copper at these levels is generally not a problem with fish and aquatic invertebrates, but if you already are treated with copper or if this is allowed to hope for a reef aquarium this is something an aqua rosary should be aware of. Copper levels above 5 ppm can start to become dangerous for certain delicate invertebrates such as corals and levels above 25 ppm can be dangerous to fish. It should also be noted for copper, which is in hot water in particular, copper can also be added to tap water from copper plumbing own.
What fluoride, I have not found convincing studies on the evil of fluoride to fish or other aquatic creatures, in fact, tiny amounts are needed for the growth of coral in marine aquariums. So despite the concerns over more than stated in fluoride in tap water used in aquariums and this one I would not think.
What Phosphates, many municipalities use phosphates to reduce the levels of lead that have been found in drinking water. Phosphates create a protective film on the inside of the pipe, slowing the electrochemical processes that lead to corrosion. Unfortunately for aquarists this could lead to additional growth of algae, especially Blue green algae (cyanobacteria). This can be a real problem in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums without easy solutions. I have a lot of phosphate sponges with mixed results, but I can say with certainty is that carbon will not remove phosphorus, in fact, even some carbon to add to your phosphate levels. Protein
Skimmers in marine aquariums can remove some phosphates, but I have not noticed that much difference.
Water changes using RO water and then adding small elements and electrolytes in the back is another solution. In freshwater aquariums, "Wonder Shells - calcium and electrolyte replenisher" can help with this, but in the marine salt water mixes have all the elements you need.
Chlorine and CHLORAMINES:
To start with most city tap water has chlorine, an oxidizer that (a chemical substance that gains electrons in a redox chemical reaction), but this can kill fish by burning their gills and their blood poisoning. Some municipalities use chloramines because they are more stable than chlorine. Chloramines are a chemical compound of chlorine and ammonia and can not be cooked or our permitted to sit for a few days to remove them before the water in an aquarium. You'll have to remove chloramines chemical that tap water before adding it to your aquarium. Standard de-Chlorinators such as "Start Right Water Conditioner" will remove the chlorine, but the ammonia (NH4) for both your bio filtration or Zeolite (freshwater only) be removed. This basic de-chlorinating products are simple Reduce Reinforce Couples (sodium thiosulfate) and are very safe, even overdosed in contrast to some opinions floating around. Products such as Amquel or "Prime-(Removes ammonia, chlorine, chloramines, ammonia)" will remove the chlorine and neutralizes the ammonia (and more). Prime is made of Hydrosulfite salts which are in fact a non-toxic agents composed of bisulfites and hydrosulfites, aqueous solution, buffered at pH 8. As mentioned earlier, reducing agents are in principle not opposed to a reasonable doses toxic to fish and aquatic animals. See my article "Aquarium redox potential; How they relate to aquatic good health"
INORGANIC CHEMICALS, nitrites, nitrates, copper, phosphate and fluoride:
Nitrites are allowed to 1 ppm, even at this level, there may be some damage to fish gills. Methyl Blue can be used for the treatment of nitrite poisoning, but it is best to prevent this. A good bio-filter will generally remove traces of it from tap water, as well as products such as Prime.
Nitrates are allowed up to 10 ppm, even at this level studies in human infants younger than 6 months can become ill and suffer symptoms such as Blue Baby Syndrome. Now this level, has no bad effect on all fish studies I have seen, but levels above 20 ppm can harm some marine cephalopods. It is because in many marine aquariums to use RO water mix to mix up your salt or top off for evaporation so hard not to add to the removal of nitrates in your aquarium sea.
Other explanations are allowed chemicals Copper-1, 3 ppm, Phosphates (no standards) and Fluoride-4, 0 ppm. Copper at these levels is generally not a problem with fish and aquatic invertebrates, but if you already are treated with copper or if this is allowed to hope for a reef aquarium this is something an aqua rosary should be aware of. Copper levels above 5 ppm can start to become dangerous for certain delicate invertebrates such as corals and levels above 25 ppm can be dangerous to fish. It should also be noted for copper, which is in hot water in particular, copper can also be added to tap water from copper plumbing own.
What fluoride, I have not found convincing studies on the evil of fluoride to fish or other aquatic creatures, in fact, tiny amounts are needed for the growth of coral in marine aquariums. So despite the concerns over more than stated in fluoride in tap water used in aquariums and this one I would not think.
What Phosphates, many municipalities use phosphates to reduce the levels of lead that have been found in drinking water. Phosphates create a protective film on the inside of the pipe, slowing the electrochemical processes that lead to corrosion. Unfortunately for aquarists this could lead to additional growth of algae, especially Blue green algae (cyanobacteria). This can be a real problem in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums without easy solutions. I have a lot of phosphate sponges with mixed results, but I can say with certainty is that carbon will not remove phosphorus, in fact, even some carbon to add to your phosphate levels. Protein
Skimmers in marine aquariums can remove some phosphates, but I have not noticed that much difference.
Water changes using RO water and then adding small elements and electrolytes in the back is another solution. In freshwater aquariums, "Wonder Shells - calcium and electrolyte replenisher" can help with this, but in the marine salt water mixes have all the elements you need.
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