Hardy Fish for a Beginning Aquarium

Having an aquarium is very rewarding, enjoyable experience. There are so many different species of fish, aquariums, fill and where you can fully customize your own aquarium for you. The fish are fun to watch, and the sweet water runoff adds a wonderfully natural ambience to any room. They may, however, be a great responsibility, and some are much higher maintenance than others. Those who are new to the holding of a need to carefully select their fish. Different species have specific requirements for size aquarium, cleaning requirements, temperature, and eat different foods. When selecting fish for beginners, it's a good idea to look for those who do not need a huge reservoir, have low maintenance cleaning requirements, and are generally hardy. Here are some choices that are ideal for beginners and offers lots of fun.

One of the funnest and easier to keep the fish is called the White Cloud Mountain Minnow. This species is ideal for beginners because they are extremely robust, and eat almost any type of food. They are best suited to the water temperature between 55-75 F, if they are most comfortable in the water can not be below 65 degrees. It is best to remember that the white clouds are schooling fish, and they must be kept in schools of 3 or more. In fact, a small school (4-5 fish) can be kept in a small aquarium four gallons. They are also very clean, meaning that their continued good health and clean water is extremely easy! White clouds are also fun to watch, as they are extremely fast swimmers that love to zip around a pool and play with each other.

Bettas, or fish fight against the Siamese as they are commonly known, are also interesting for new aquarium enthusiasts. These fish have a reputation for being extremely easy to maintain, and although it is strongly recommended, they are not even need a filter. They are clean and only need cleaning usual amounts for their aquarium, and can be remarkably preserved in small tanks. Bettas are larger, colorful fish, and many are for decorative purposes. There is much debate about how a small aquarium Betta should be kept in humanity, but it is a fact they live longer than in aquaria are smaller. A good size for a single tank Betta is about 2 to 5 gallons. It should also be noted that Betta are known for their aggressive personalities - sometimes they are not great with other fish, and men can not be kept in the same without trying to kill each other. Bettas require warmer water.

One of the most popular fish on the whole, Corydoras Catfish happen to be wonderful for beginners. These fish are among the most sociable and friendly kind you can put in your tank, and love to be in schools with each other and other fish species. They grow about a year and a half inches long, making them perfect for aquariums of all sizes. He will need a heater, as Corys need water time between sixty-two and eighty-two degrees. Corys food is very simple, like most of the time they will search the bottom and feeding the remains of food from other fish. It is a good idea, however, to supplement their diet with a tropical snack time to time, and food stuff like algae wafers may actually be a fun experience. In addition to a heater, your aquarium should be about 10 gallons for a school for three or four.

These fish are easy and fun for those who seek to launch their first aquarium. The choice between one of them is only a matter of specifications and personal taste, and each has its own personality and charm. They are also robust and forgiveness, and you can find much information on them quite easily. Remember that when you're looking to start an aquarium to find what is right for you, and choose fish that work best in this environment.

Setting Up an Aquarium - Adding Fishes to Your Aquarium

Fish faces many dangers once they leave the shelter on aquatic store, adding a new fish aquarium should be done with great care so as not to stress the fish too much, or even cause a worse fate. You owe it to the fish you buy, take great care of them, just as you would for any other animal that you encourage.

After setting up a new aquarium, and when you're satisfied with your water test results, one or two hardy fish can be introduced. These wastes produce enough to feed the bacteria and develop their number. When adding fish you should never end their right of the bag in the aquarium, the temperature in the bag will be different from the temperature of the water in your aquarium.

Fish should be acclimated slowly otherwise they could be shocked, leaving the subjects to the disease. Instead of emptying the bag into the aquarium, place the unopened bag in your aquarium water for about 15 minutes to equalize the temperature, then open the bag and add a small amount of water from the aquarium to the This, leave for 5 minutes, then repeat until the water temperature are equal before letting the fish swim slowly out of the bag.

Do not be tempted to add a more just fish stocks again, it is a crucial step. Support your test kits, you should monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels every few days while the bacteria multiply. It is not unusual for the level of nitrite increase at this stage, it should soon return. Over the next two weeks make your tests regularly. If you find unacceptable levels of nitrite content, you need to do a partial change of water, not too much mind, try about 10 per cent of all day until it falls.

When you are satisfied that levels remained stable, you can add another small batch of fish. Once again, remember to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels for a couple of weeks before adding another small batch of fish. Gradually build up to the recommended levels of storage for the dimensions of your aquarium, more than 8 to 10 weeks.

How many fish?

If you want to know how many fish in your aquarium tropical freshwater sleeps, just multiply your aquarium length by the width in inches and divide by 12 is the total amount of fish in inches that can support your aquarium .

If you want to use the metric your aquarium measured in inches, divide by 30, this will give you the amount of fish in centimeters.

24 x 12 x 12 inches aquarium, 24 x 12 = 288 divided by 12 = 24 inches of fish.

60 x 30 x 30 cm aquarium, 60 x 30 = 1800 divided by 30 = 60 cm fish.

New tank syndrome:

When setting up a new aquarium and / or filter, you need to monitor closely the situation in the first 4 to 6 weeks (as I explained above), especially after adding new stocks of fish. As previously reported, the bacteria have to build, and so far, a phenomenon known as new tank syndrome can occur and could cause problems.

During the start procedure is a characteristic rise and fall in concentrations of ammonia and nitrite, with levels may become toxic and cause fish to become unhealthy. This is because at this stage of fish waste and uneaten food accumulation in the aquarium and are not broken down by nitrification bacteria, ie the nitrogen cycle.

Does the water tests every two or three days.

Do not overeat once a day is more than sufficient, and that the smallest amount.

Do not think you're cruel, far away.

More fish to eat more food means more waste, and your filters will not cope with the surge of fish waste. Be patient, it takes time to mature and an aquarium filters, and enjoy long-term with fewer problems and be successful.

If you do encounter a problem with your water quality, to replace about 10 - 20 percent of it per day, or every two days so that you bring to toxic levels to normal, no Remember to treat the new water the way you did first. Never replace more than 50% of your water at any time (you'll just end to the water again and be back to square one).

It is better to make small changes in water more than a few days, rather than changing large volumes of water. When you make a change in water trying to get as much debris from the aquarium and gravel as possible, this task will be easier with a gravel own, and without clouding the water too.

New tank syndrome can have a range of effects on fish, some of which include breath on the surface, Gill rapid movement, rubbing against objects. They are also prone to diseases such as end rot, fungi and whitespot, May and even die.

What you need to keep in mind is that, if new syndrome tank, it is likely that all fish will be affected, if only one or two, it would probably be introduced disease. If you use common sense and try to understand the needs of fish, and the processes of nature, you'll be well on your way towards the establishment of an aquarium successfully.

Now you can sit and enjoy your creation. You've followed the steps that will lead to more enjoyment of your hobby, rather than having to worry about what the earth has gone wrong!

Purchasing Healthy Fish

Fortunately, there are things you can look out before making a purchase:

Fins should not be falling, particularly the dorsal fin. A late collapse is a bad sign for most fish, although for some species, this trick does not apply. Curl tail normally pumps against their body, that fish and butterflies have developed dorsal fins only when they are afraid.

In addition, fins must be intact. Look for choked, torn, ripped or fins. A few PIN May not be a problem if the fish seems to behave properly, but it is a sign of attention.

Watch the fish swim and mingle with other specimens in the tank. For example, smaller fish should leave the path of a dominant fish swim by, this indicates that the fish is feeling normal. A sick fish May dominant allow fish to intimidate, because he is too ill to get out of the way.

Consider breathing fish, comparing the movement to another gills of fish. It is normal for fish to breathe faster than others, but generally fish tend to move their gills at the same pace as those around them in a tank. Gill rapid movement is a bad sign because it means that the fish is probably stressed.

Other indicators of stress dark spots and discoloration. If you buy a book on fish before shopping, it will be easier to determine what is normal for coloring a fish, and what comes out of the ordinary.

The fish swim back and forth, looking for bumps and raised growths, small white crystals on fins, or black spots. Fish with these characteristics have infestations of parasites. Crus on fins that look like cauliflower are an indication of a viral infection and stress. In general, if you notice several fish in a store with signs of stress and disease, not to buy any fish from that location.

And remember, the fish that bullying in the fish store will probably do the same at home to avoid buying fish that show aggressive behavior.

For saltwater aquariums in particular, avoid buying or corrugated Queen Triggers, Sohal Tangs, or Go Angels. Avoid marine fish that grow more than six to eight inches, unless you're looking to add a slow-moving fish in your aquarium.

Take your time analyzing the fish to have time to look beyond the beautiful colors. It is easy to miss indicators of problems when you were mesmerized by a beautiful fish that swims your way. Take a good look at the fish skin and fins, and watch his movements over a period of time.

Routine And Regular Maintenance for a Successful Aquarium

The secret of success fishkeeping should be routine and regular maintenance. The simple tasks will prevent fishkeeper are grappling with problems and ending up with a disorder unhealthy environment for fish to live Once created, your aquarium will require a minimum of time and effort to keep the research attractive and its inhabitants healthy and colorful.

On a daily basis:

* Crustacean

* Check the water temperature

* Check the numbers of fish and behavior

* Remove debris such as uneaten food, dead leaves (if planted), etc.

* Check filters are operating OK

* Check the air pumps are operating OK.

On a weekly basis:

* Test the quality of water if necessary, carry out a partial change of water

* Prune plants (if planted)

* Clean shelf condensation.

Every 2-3 weeks:

* Change part of water (approximately 20-30 percent)

* Clean filters

* Clean tank

* Remove algae from the front glass

* Check plants need thinning (if planted)

It is not necessary or even wise to completely empty and clean an aquarium. Regular partial water changes are much more beneficial in that fish and plants remain healthy.

Adding fresh water will dilute the pollutants that May be present, such as nitrates, and it is better to proceed with a major cleanup of the aquarium, especially the removal of debris and uneaten food from the gravel.

It is recommended that all electrical aquarium be extinguished before performing maintenance which means putting your hands in water! It is also useful to have a couple of tissues ready to wipe your hands as you dive in and out of the water.

It is best to remove all the rocks in the aquarium first, so that the gravel is easier to clean, to place them in a bucket of water out of the way (any buckets and other equipment should be set aside to use only the aquarium to prevent pollution of the aquarium).

A gravel cleaner can be used to clean gravel in depth, without clouding the water too. Siphon dirty water in a bucket held specifically for the job and then dispose of water in an appropriate place, such as the garden.

Regular cleaning gravel also ensures that this is not clogged with debris, which is essential if a undergravel filtration system is working effectively. Filter sponges, or pre-filter media, should be washed in old aquarium water only, not tap water, chlorine in tap water would destroy the beneficial bacteria present their only enough to wash them free of obstructions debris.

With the water level reduces, you can take this opportunity to clean the elements in the aquarium deems necessary, and remove any May that algae have developed on the front glass. (I use a washing-up sponge for this, the type with a nylon scrubber on one side, an old toothbrush is also useful for cleaning jobs).

You can leave the rear and sides for a more natural, and for loving algae fish on the grater. Place any rocks in the aquarium before filling with fresh water. Fresh water must be treated with dechlorinator and the temperature of the existing aquarium water, which can then be siphoned into the aquarium.

When the tank is filled, replace the cover and lid, wipe off glass with a damp cloth, no detergent or cleaning! Spend all your equipment on his back and verify that it is working. That's all there is to it, but it regularly will save a lot of misery and you have an aquarium to be proud and not one you'd rather hide.

Aquarium Plants

Lighting is important if you want your plants to grow successfully. They need 12-14 hours of light each day, just like in nature. Opinions vary concerning how much light plants need live, but generally 3-5 watts per gallon works well. Compact fluorescent bulbs and by 20, 50-watt halogen bulbs both do the job right, so experiment with different types of lighting to find out what works best for your plants.

Plants also require the proper nutrients to stay healthy and green. Everything works together in a well-planned aquarium, so keeping the plants fed is not a difficult prospect. Feed nutrients to the plants come from the fish in the tank - you can add more if needed. Fertilization is easy as well because plants are naturally able to use fish waste as fertilizer. You can add a commercial fertilizer when you change the water, but it's usually better to follow the "less is more" philosophy when it comes to fertilizing your plants. Too much fertilizer can cause problems with algae growth in the tank, and you can always add more if required.

What about water temperature? The majority of aquatic plants thrive in water temperatures between 72F and 78F. The pH of the water is also important - a pH of 6.8 to 7.8 is ideal.

Snails are another natural component that help the overall health of the aquatic environment. Snails clean of food plants and small algae, as they crawl over leaves and foliage. However, some snails can actually cause problems. Ramshorn, pond, and other species eat the leaves instead of clean them, and can cause unwanted damage. Luckily, it's quite easy to remove troublesome snails. Simply place lettuce leaves at the top of the aquarium to attract the snails - remove everything with a net once all the snails have assembled on the lettuce pieces.

Before placing new plants in your aquarium, rinse them thoroughly in warm water to remove any insects you do not want invading the aquarium. Healthy plants have solid roots and leaves firm, so this is what you should look for when purchasing aquatic plants. Avoid plants that give off a strange smell, especially bulbs, as this is an indication that the plant is not healthy and may not grow properly ounces placed in your tank.

Younger plants generally adjust better to transplant, so keep this in mind as well. Although the plants you buy will need a period of time to adjust, and may lose some leaves, do not be alarmed. This is completely normal. To promote healthy new growth, just remove dead leaves as they appear, being careful not to damage the roots.

Aquatic plants make a beautiful addition to any aquarium and help keep the fish comfortable, healthy, and happy.

Supplements for Your Saltwater Aquarium

The elements contained in salt water are essential to the health of your fish. As an aquarium works through its cycles, however, essential minerals and nutrients tend to become exhausted and need to be recharged through a change of water aquarium or supplements.

Everyone does not need to add supplements to their aquarium - it really depends on the situation. If you keep up with changes in water and maintenance, and keep only the fish, supplementation May not be necessary. That's because with each change of water essential elements are automatically replenished. Coral reef tanks need supplements to keep the amount of calcium at a sufficiently high level.

If you think your saltwater aquarium needs supplementation, using a test kit is essential so that you know exactly what is missing and how many should be added to water. Furthermore, adding too much a particular item may cause problems for your fish. An error is not very easy to do, either. You have to do a water change to remedy the oversight, causing great stress for your fish.

There is still much debate on supplementation water due to changes in routine are normally sufficient to replenish supplies and keep the tank works well, especially for aquarium fish or fish only rock and live aquariums. However, most experts agree that to coral reef tanks, complete with calcium is beneficial. To keep in alkaline water reef aquariums, May you also want to supplement with magnesium and Kalkwasser.

Calcium supplements are beneficial for tanks with clams, corals, algae and, as it helps them grow. For fans who need a high level of calcium in their aquarium similar to the amount in natural salt water, it may be difficult to maintain the correct amount without added supplements. There are some products on the market that the dose of aquarium water with calcium, or you can buy diluted calcium chloride at a dose of water. The latter method is more expensive but easier. To avoid lowering the alkalinity of the water with liquid calcium, May you must use a carbonate or bicarbonate as a buffer.

To maintain a good alkalinity, which should be around 2.5 mEq / L (alkalinity natural salt water), you have to add kalkwasser May (lime water) to the aquarium. It is calcium hydroxide - it must be added through doses. The process can be set up to occur automatically depending on the pH in water, or you can do this manually when you carry the water to high-offs. You can also slowly drip directly into the aquarium.

Kalkwasser gives your aquarium a double whammy, adding calcium and maintain alkalinity, it has many benefits.

Ultimately, the choice is to be completed in your hands. If you plan to set up a reef aquarium, supplementation is a need to maintain corals and other invertebrates that live in your tank healthy.

UV Sterilizers for Aquarium Maintenance

If you have an aquarium at home, chances are you have several filtration units taking care of the water. A UV sterilizer is a good addition to an aquarium, even if it should be the last stage filtration process. It is important that the aquarium water passes through the mechanical filter before passing through the UV unit. Or mechanics bogus filter removes solids so that any water that passes through the UV unit is then cleaned with optimal results.

UV sterilizers continue to work well as long as the bulb wattage is sufficient and the bulb is not too old. The effectiveness of the device also depends on the cleanliness of the quartz sleeve and the flow of the unit.

The bulb

Over time by UV bulb will begin to lose its effectiveness, that is why you must replace every 6 months. You can buy vials of 8 watts and 130 watts - greater power does a better job of cleaning water. Devices with low wattage bulb needs a lower speed to work well.

Flow

The flow is also an important factor to consider - a slower speed is more effective to kill parasites, in addition to algae and bacteria. The flow is measured either in gallons per hour or liters per hour. A 15-watt appliance bulb has no problem to control algae and bacteria to 120 gph flow, but it will not kill parasites unless the rate drops to 75 gal / h.

Clean the Quartz

The quartz sleeve where the UV bulb is the device. Many people forget about this part of UV sterilizer and not give it a good cleaning from time to time. Cleaning eliminates the accumulation and ensure that the UV sterilizer continues to work at top capacity. More expensive sterilization are designed with a handful wiper placed outside the unit for quick and easy cleaning of the bag without having to take off.

Fortunately, it is easy to find UV sterilizers these days in local stores and online. These devices make a wonderful addition to any aquarium, but they come with a price to pay heavy, especially when you factor in the cost of replacement bulbs.

Lovers of saltwater aquarium are more likely to buy UV sterilizers, because they improve water quality and provides another layer of protection for expensive saltwater fish.

Even if a UV sterilizer is not a necessity, many aquarium enthusiasts can find that the device is effective in maintaining clean water and keeping fish and other aquatic species healthy and happy. It all depends on personal choice and what works best for your aquarium.

Time For a Vacation - But Who Will Feed the Fish?

The first order of business should be to find how to feed fish during your absence. May you be surprised to discover that the fish can survive for long periods of time (several weeks) without food. In nature, fish can not always find food on a regular basis, so they have adapted to live in conditions of scarcity. If you are only going away for a week or two, feeding your fish is not necessarily something you have to worry about. In fact, when you come home from the aquarium May be cleaner than when you left because the fish produced little waste during your vacation.

Automatic

Many people are afraid to leave their fish without food for a long period of time, no matter what experts say. That is when a feeder of food comes in handy. These devices are designed to free food at specified intervals automatically. Machines are affordable and you can use throughout the year. Fill the shipper with any type of food you want (tropical fish flakes or granules of food) and is ready to go. Automatic last for a few weeks before the need for a recharge. Most of these devices allow you to adjust the amount of food that is published every time, and battery.

Another idea is to ask friends, family, neighbors or feed the fish for you. Divide the amount of food your fish will need each day in containers so that the person who helps you to simply follow the signs for the daily diet, and you do not have to worry about the possibility of your fish too.

For saltwater aquariums, May someone have to empty the skimmer collection cup as it fills with gunk and begins to feel. Or, you can adjust the collection cup before you permission to collect less protein for a few weeks.

If you go away for more than two weeks, seek help from someone you know and trust is a necessity because even if the fish are fed properly, the quality of the water tank must be maintained.

Maintenance - Before you leave

Before leaving, make a partial change of water to clean water and ensure that your fish do not become stressed and stay healthy during your absence. This also ensures that water levels remain at an acceptable place during your absence. Even with a high rate of evaporation, the reservoir will be tolerable until you return.

It is also a good idea to rinse the filters and make necessary replacements.

What about lighting? A simple solution is to buy a timer that light turns on and off automatically so that everything in your aquarium receives the right amount of light to stay healthy and alive.

Water Test Kits For Aquariums

Each test kit is rather expensive, although it's possible to save some money if you purchase a master test kit. How do aquarium test kits work? The process is very easy - all you have to do is dip the strips in a test tube containing your aquarium water, and compare the color on the strip to the information cards that come with the package. Another type of test kit comes with droppers containing a liquid solution you drip into a test tube of sample water. Then you just shake and wait a few minutes for the results. Again, match the color in the test tube to the color on the card to find out what the results mean. Saltwater master test kits look for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, alkalinity and even. Ammonia builds up in a saltwater aquarium from fish waste and leftover food that has begun to rot. It's extremely important to keep your tank free of ammonia, as it's the main reason why fish die. Readings should always be 0. Nitrite develops when bacteria present in the tank feed off ammonia. In new tanks that have not been cycled, nitrite levels are very high. Nitrite is toxic to fish just like ammonia. To remove nitrates from the water you have to conduct a water change. Bacteria in the water and filters eventually transform nitrate into nitrite. A nitrite reading must be 0. Nitrates are produced, as mentioned above, during the natural cycling process. While not as toxic as nitrates and ammonia, nitrates can cause your fish stress in high amounts. A partial water change will get rid of nitrates, which should be less than 20 ppm. Reef tanks should have closer to a reading 0. pH refers to a water's acidity or alkalinity. The pH scale is between 0 and 14. Zero is the most acidic, seven is neutral, and fourteen is alkaline. Water changes can raise or lower the pH level, as does the addition of specific chemicals to the water. The right pH level depends on the type of fish you have in your tank. An alkalinity kit tests the stability of your water in regards to a changing pH level. Essentially, this type of test looks specifically for your aquarium's capabilities for stabilizing the pH in the water. The reading in saltwater tanks should be between 7 and 12 dkH. Testing the water in your aquarium is an important part of maintaining the tank and keeping your fish safe and healthy. Regular maintenance will ensure your aquarium continues to run smoothly, but you always have to double check by carrying out the required tests.
Each test kit is quite expensive, but it is possible to save some money if you buy a test kit master.

How do aquarium test kits work? The process is very easy - all you have to do is to soak the strips in a test tube containing water in your aquarium, and compare the color of the band to information that the maps included in the package.

Another type of test kit comes with drops of a solution containing liquid drip into a test tube of water sample. Then you just shake and wait a few minutes for results. Again, match the color in the test tube to the color on the map to see what results.

Saltwater master Look for test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, alkalinity, and even.

Ammonia built in a saltwater aquarium from fish waste and leftover food that began to rot. It is extremely important to keep your tank of ammonia free, as is the main reason why fish are dying. Readings should always be 0.

Nitrite develops when bacteria present in the feed tank of ammonia. In the new tanks that have not been cycling, nitrite levels are very high. Nitrite is toxic to fish as ammonia. To remove nitrates from the water you have to make a change of water. Bacteria in water and filters eventually transform nitrite to nitrate. A nitrite reading should be 0.

Nitrates are produced, as indicated above, during the process of natural cycle. Although not as toxic as nitrates and ammonia, nitrates can cause stress to your fish in large quantities. A partial change of water will get rid of nitrates, which should be below 20 ppm. Reef tanks must have a reading closer to 0.

pH refers to water's acidity or alkalinity. The pH scale is between 0 and 14. Zero is the most acidic, neutral seven and four, is alkaline. Water changes may increase or decrease the pH level, as well as adding chemicals to water. The pH level depends on the type of fish you have in your tank.

A test kit alkalinity of the stability of your water with respect to changes in the level of pH. Essentially, this type of test specifically looking for your aquarium building for stabilizing the pH in water. Reading in tanks of salt water must be between 7 and 12 dkH.

Test your water tank is an important part of maintaining the tank and keeping your fish healthy and safe. Regular maintenance will ensure your aquarium continues to run smoothly, but you should always check the tests necessary.

The Nitrogen Cycle and Your Aquarium

When the fish, plants and foods in the aquarium a process known as nitrification occurs, it is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. This is not unique to aquariums; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action decomposes decomposing organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrites and nitrates.

These nitrifying bacteria can be described as beneficial or good bacteria, without the aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with the heterotrophic bacteria consume fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and their conversion into ammonia.

Ammonia (NH3) is a colorless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and it is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fish is in the form of ammonia, most of which are secreted by the gills. The rest excreted in faeces, is transformed into ammonia by heterotrophic bacteria.

Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish and must be removed or broken. Visual signs of fish to succumb to this toxicity include:

The blast on the surface

Cloudy eyes

Fins frayed

Indifferent behavior

Increased production of mucus

Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)

Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia, it may be dead, even after ammonia levels are under control. Small fish have a greater surface Gill on a larger fish, and are therefore more susceptible to toxic ammonia.

Water changes are the best way to solve the problems of ammonia. You must make partial changes of water more than a few days at low levels. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at stores and water are very useful to the elimination of various substances freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.

Moving to a fish tank security will terminate the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when the ammonia levels back to zero. If you have a high pH level, you can try to reduce the nearest 7.0, which will also reduce the toxicity of ammonia.

The pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, including ammonia and ammonium are included. is logarithmic pH, which is the factor controlling the presence of ammonia or ammonium.

Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, so if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then Ammonia is ammonium.

As pH increases, so does the toxicity of ammonia, ie a pH increased from 7.0 to 8.0 is ten times more in the hydroxyl ion (and a decrease the concentration of hydrogen) and, finally, a tenfold increase the toxicity of ammonia.

It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before increasing significantly the pH. Ammonia tests show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and Nitrosomonas bacteria consume ammonia and convert it to nitrite.

Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fish if not eliminated or converted to nitrate in the nitrogen cycle. 1ppm levels above must be removed by making important changes of water. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, tests regularly, until the level of nitrite reduced to zero.

Moving to a fish tank security will terminate the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank at nitrite reads zero. Symptoms of toxicity, nitrite:

Apathy

The blast on the surface

Blood and turning brown gills

Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if the pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in water, nitrite convert to nitrous acid. This too is highly toxic to fish.

Nitrate (NO3) is the final product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively nontoxic, although high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted to nitrate by bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the process of nitrification of work.

Some species are more tolerant than others nitrates, but such an approach would be to maintain levels below 50 ppm (mg / l). Some symptoms of the toxicity of nitrate would be:

Poor general health

Slow Growth

Poor color

Less tolerance to the disease

Nitrate is an essential source of food for plants and algae, if you encourage the growth of healthy plants in your aquarium, the levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if the tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial change of water is necessary.

Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance generally retain control anyway. Ammonia and nitrite levels tend to be at their highest level in the first 4 to 6 weeks of a new aquarium. This is generally known as new tank syndrome.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is a highly toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations, it can cause rapid death. It is produced during the decomposition of organic matter that contains sulfur, and the action of dilute acid on sulfides (acid aquariums being at risk).

The usual cause of the aquarium is probably one of negligence, not the substrate keeping clean dirt and debris, thus enabling the deteriorating building. A first indication of this problem may be a sudden bloom of algae.

The toxic gas affects fish by linking the iron in hemoglobin blood, which blocks the absorption of oxygen, which causes symptoms, which include:

Respiratory problems

The blast on the surface

Unusual coloring gills

Regular aquarium maintenance, be sure to clean all the debris of the substrate, avoids the problem.

Tropical Fish

- HOW TO STOCK YOUR TANK -

It's all very well to hear people talking about the beauties of an aquarium, how to maintain adequate pH, keeping nitrate and phosphate levels adequately balanced, and so on ... there seems to be plenty of technical detail available!

But what about the actual fish? How do you choose which ones you want? How do you know whether they'll be too big for the tank when they grow up, or whether they'll be compatible with your other fish? How do you find out how to stock your tank?

Here is a quick rundown of the things you'll need to bear in mind when choosing fish for your tank, as well as a brief look at a couple of the more common types of tropical fish. Hopefully it'll give you a good idea of where to get started!

Freshwater vs. Saltwater

Obviously, the water type is different, but what does that actually mean in terms of the kind of aquarium you'll end up with?

Specifically, freshwater tanks are generally recommended for beginner aquarists - especially if children are going to be involved in looking after the fish.

This is because freshwater fish are much easier to look after, and are generally more resilient to less-than-perfect water quality and fluctuations in temperature (and, really, all the sorts of mistakes that beginners are prone to make!). In general, freshwater tanks are both cheaper and easier to maintain than saltwater ones.

Saltwater aquariums often have more colorful fish, but maintaining the chemistry of a saltwater tank is a pretty finicky business, and is best undertaken by someone well-versed in the lore of fish-keeping.

What to think about when choosing your fish

Unfortunately, choosing fish for an aquarium isn't as simple as you might think. You can't just go into a pet store and select arbitrary numbers of the fish that you find the most appealing - you need to invest some forethought into your tank to ensure that your fish lead happy, healthy lives.

Some things to think about:

* Fish size. When you buy fish, they're usually babies. Some will stay about the same size, but other will grow much, much larger - so you'll need to bear the size of your tank in mind! As a standard rule of thumb, always buy for the adult size. If there's no guide on the tank or if you're unsure, ask the assistant. This is really important, because fish are sensitive little creatures: if they're subjected to overcrowding (which happens when fish are too large for their surrounds), they can get so stressed out that they die. Really.

* Recommended diet. Not all fish dine equally - some fish eat live food, some eat frozen food, some eat flakes, and some will eat anything (but don't rely on that last one when it's tank-stocking time!) Because different fish eat different things, unless you're prepared to invest time each day in measuring out the accurate quantities of various fish foods, it's best to get fish that eat the same thing. It'll make it easier and less expensive for you to take care of your new pets (and will ensure that the kids can participate, too, if they want to get involved).

* Compatibility. Contrary to popular belief, fish do actually have personalities - and some of them can get pretty aggressive. Many tropical fish have well-deserved reputations as bullies: they can nip the fins of other, more peace-loving fish, they can 'barge' smaller fish, and they can get into fights (which are frequently pretty vicious). To eliminate the likelihood of your fish getting into scraps, you should aim to buy fish that have mutually compatible personalities - which means, no territorial fighting fish in with a school of peace-loving roamers!

* Water temperature. Just because the dozen or so species of fish in that wall of tanks in the pet store are all labeled 'tropical fish', doesn't mean that they're all tropical fish from the same region. Different fish thrive in different temperatures - and because you can only have one temperature at a time in your tank, it's best if you choose fish that are comfortable in the same temperature range.

* Life expectancy. Some fish live for upwards of ten years - which is a pretty serious time commitment! If you're a free spirit who likes to roam about (and, let's face it, tropical fish tanks don't normally go down so well when you're trying to thumb a ride), consider how long you're likely to want to keep this fish tank for, and shop accordingly.

So what types of fish can I buy then?

Shopping for tropical fish is fun! As long as you've got your tank dimensions figured out and know basically how much money you want to spend (and have perhaps printed out the above list, to take with you to the store), grab your wallet and head to the pet shop/fish breeder. One of the best parts about keeping a tropical tank is that the beauty of the fish doesn't depend on the size of your checking account!

Some common breeds that you'll likely encounter:

* Clown Loach. Clown loaches are colorful, lively, and humorous fish with plenty of quirky personality traits (like lying on their side when resting, and making loud clicking noises when they eat!) Clown loaches do best in schools, so if you like them, get at least three or four. These fish grow between 6 and 12 inches - they're pretty sizeable! - and prefer to eat meaty food.

* Congo Tetra. These peaceful fish are popular choices for beginners, as they're very brightly colored and like to flash around the tank in divertingly attractive schools (again, you'll need to get more than a few of these to keep them happy). These are a medium-sized fish, generally growing to around 5 inches in length, and require a minimum of 30 gallons of water for adequate swimming space. Tetras love clean water, and lots of live plants to dart around and hide behind, but aside from this they're pretty easy-care.

* Elephant Nose. These are really amazing fish to look at - they have a long, protuberant 'trunk' for a nose (hence the name) which they use to hunt small live food - although they will also eat frozen and flaked food too, if it's all that's available. They grow to be about 8 inches long and need a sandy, gravelly bottom on the tank. These are fairly territorial fish, but will do fine as long as the tank isn't overcrowded.

* Tiger Barb. These fish derive their names from the characteristic black barring ('tiger stripes') on their flanks. They're very striking fish, but they can be quite aggressive toward other species (they're known as fin nippers). Aggression is minimized by keeping them in schools, where they'll be distracted from the other fish in the tank by working out the necessary hierarchy among themselves - it can be pretty diverting to watch! Tiger Barbs grow to about 3 inches and need plenty of space for schooling. They're omnivores, so they eat all types of food: the one feeding rule is to do it regularly, to avoid aggression!

A General Approach to Feeding Tropical Fish

There is more to food than just fish to put food in the aquarium. Not only will you find enjoyable, but it will also give you an overview of each fish behavior. In time to come, you will be able to identify differences in behavior, which could indicate a possible health problem or aquarium.

Your fish must be interested in the food you offer them, and should not hesitate to consume easily. Indeed, all my fish come to the surface when they see me approach the tanks with their food.

The most important thing to do is not feed too. The more food fish eat the more waste they produce, this May's obvious, but when combined with any uneaten food which is probably more to the left of the food too, it creates a problem.

All of these wastes will be on the aquarium floor, and begin to decompose, in turn produce the pollutants that fish can not tolerate, and could ultimately lead to fatal accidents. Simply put, the easiest way to tank is mismanagement by overeating.

Another important factor is diet, it is a fact that poor diet is responsible for a fish unable to fight disease. If a fish is to live a healthy life, it must have a well balanced diet.

There was a time when the dry food were used only by necessity, because his rank can not be assured. Even now, modern food flakes are too often ignored or dismissed as less than a complete diet. It is also surprising that many books seem fishkeeping take a skeptical view of dry food.

There is no need for this negative attitude. Today, it is not too difficult to provide good quality food flakes, most foods are now indisputable flakes of origin, they are scientifically developed, and are undoubtedly a complete diet .

Food trade have progressed to the point now most species can live life on a varied diet of high quality dry food. Indeed, if it is not readily available in the range of staple foods flakes, today fishkeepers it would be a big problem to feed their fish.

There are also great benefits with dry food, they are always available, they can be easily stored, which saves on regular trips to buy, but it should be noted that the vitamin are limited shelf life, vitamin content is generally guaranteed until the best before date, it will be on the container.

On the other hand, minerals and trace elements, have a long shelf life and are not affected by prolonged storage. The risk of diseases or pests introduced into the aquarium with food is completely eliminated with dry food.

It should be remembered that all fish can not prosper if the animals of the same scheme. For example, you would not think to feed a cat with lettuce leaves, or a rabbit with steak, it is the same with fish. Some species of fish need a vegetable, while some live in need of food, on the other hand, there are species that do well when fed on both.

Meat eaters are considered carnivores

Eating vegetables are considered herbivores

Fish that eat a diet, ie a bit of both, are regarded as omnivores

Mud eaters are regarded as Limnivores

There are many types of dry foods, such as tablets, sticks, granules, chips, and flakes of course, and others. All these dry food can be purchased in various compositions, depending on the type of fish you want for food.

For example, I use platelets sinking algae, plants or tokens, for my PLECOSTOMUS (primarily herbivores, even if they eat worms various etc), and the surface of food, such as my Gourami, are fed on a snowflake high quality food, while at the same time, my Green Terror (Cichlid generally Carnivore) likes to eat the algae and the snowflake wafers, as well as live food.

So there is a wide choice of foods available for your fish, make the best of them and keep your fish healthy, happy and colorful.

Feeding Tropical Fish - Live, Vegetable, and Other Types of Food

Most species of live fish grow on foods, most of which can be purchased from your local store water. Live food being fed to your fish must be purchased, or culture if you know how much. Live food that was captured in the wild, for example, a garden pond, might introduce diseases in the aquarium.

Daphnia are small crustaceans, and are sometimes called water fleas, even if they are not really fleas at all. They can be found in ponds in spring and summer and are often sold in stores water. They do not have much food value, fish, but their love, and your fish will certainly keep fit around the capture of hunting them.

Bloodworm are the larvae of midges and are highly nutritious, they can be found at the bottom of ponds and even small puddles. You've seen May as a small red wriggling worm-like creatures about half an inch (1.3cm) long, which holds almost any quantity of water.

Tubifex to live in the muddiest and sales conditions, it seems surprising they are recommended in May as food for all. However, it is a popular choice when it comes to treatment of fish, although fish should not be fed too much or too often with tubifex because of the high albumin (protein) content.

The earthworms will provide an excellent food, and are full of albumin, which makes them suitable for large fish, such as large Cichlids. One of the reasons why they are not used as often as you might think, is that they should be cut up before giving them to fishing.

You can try your local fishing for these Otherwise, if you get your own, be sure to clean freshwater. Before they can be fed to your fish you put in a box and leave enough time for them to clarify their intestinal tract of sand, keep them moist.

There are many fish whose sole or main diet consists of vegetable foods. Many catfishes belong to this category, as well as some Livebearing species, and some Carps and minnows. You will find that these types of fish are particularly fond of algae, and especially some catfishes, can be seen often grating on objects in the aquarium, and even the aquarium glass itself, where algae grew .

Until this algae is not out of control, it can be left in the tank for the fish to feed on. However, the fact that it is not out of control, therefore not in great abundance, means that you should give your fish plant additional materials to supplement their diet.

There are a variety of vegetables are foods that fit your feed fish, possibilities include lettuce and spinach leaves, which must be blanched (briefly boiled) before feeding your fish, slices of cucumber , Peas and, of course, there are a number of excellent dry food available, which include all the ingredients for the vegetarian fish.

There are certain foods that May was not considered by newcomers to the hobby, which do not fall under the category of normal commercial rates or pet fish, for example, meat, other fish and crustaceans. These foods could be considered as solid foods and fish, including large Cichlids, do like having to eat solid foods.

The feeding your fish of high quality live and flake food etc is always recommended, but occasionally you can try small pieces of beef heart (without fat), pieces of mussels or shrimp, and pieces of fish, if you encounter any fish to a meal, then cook, cut a piece out of your fish, they love it.

If you're a fisherman, it is wise not to feed the fish with your fish that you take natural water bodies, bringing the risk of introducing diseases into your aquarium. A few simple rule is that you need; eat freshwater fish with salt water fish, salt and fish feed water with freshwater fish.

Tropical Fishes - Algae Problems

Algae (pronounced AL-Jee) are simple forms of marine life. They are pretty basic: they lack leaves, roots, flowers, seeds and all the other things that we normally associate with plants. The term "algae" is a framework that the term used to denote all forms of marine life that are capable of photosynthesis (converting sunlight into energy), although some forms of algae rely entirely on 'external supplies of energy (in the form of protein and fish waste in water) for food.

As for your tropical aquarium, the algae is certainly an unwanted visitor - a real eyesore. Of course, certain levels of algae are expected; small amounts are inevitable, where there is light, nutrients and water in combination.

However, when the levels get high enough to be visible to the naked eye, you have a surplus.Unless you maintain your aquarium regularly, you can almost count on regular growths of algae obscuring your fish, smell the water and, more generally, affect the aesthetic of your tank.

But what is it - and how do you get rid of it?

Well, it depends on the type of algae that you have, because everyone must be treated in a specific manner. The most common forms of algae to affect tropical fish tanks are:

* Brown Algae

* Green Algae

* Blue-green algae

* Green water

What to do about brown algae

The brown algae are usually the first to appear in a new reservoir. It is very easy to see: it looks like cloudy brown slime growing on the sides and bottom of your aquarium, as well as hang on gravel, rocks and ornaments.

Limiting the light makes no difference to this type of algae because it is perfectly able to grow at low lighting levels.

Instead, you need to cut back on available nutrients to sustain its growth - which means feeding your fish less. High protein levels in the reservoir, fish from food, fuel, it will be the growth of algae.

Even if your fish are eating all the food you give them does not mean that you are feeding their quantity when it comes to food, fish are opportunistic, meaning they will eat all that is available regardless of the feed you much. If they are too, they excrete the undigested food - floating around the tank, feeding algae instead!

Make sure you follow the instructions on fish-food, to be sure you're minimizing nutrient levels appropriately.

In addition to maintaining levels of the food down, make sure you're maintaining your tank adequately with enough water changes and gravel filter and cleaning.

If brown algae appears in an established aquarium, you'll need to check the phosphate and nitrate levels, that too a willingness to foster the growth of algae.

If the problem remains ongoing, you can use algae-eaters. These are bottom-dwelling fish - such as the American-flag fish and the Siamese algae eater - which feed on algae and are generally stored by shops for pets and fish traders. They will make quick work of your brown algae problem!

What if green algae

Green algae appear in any tank with plenty of light. Fortunately, it is easy to remove (it does not cling to the glass too) and most algae eaters consume enthusiastically.

For green algae, make sure you're minimizing the protein in the tank, as you would for brown algae. Start by cutting the fish-feed a quarter, and pay particular attention to the appearance of your fish: if their bodies become thin and flat, they are not eating enough. They should receive enough food to remain slightly round body.

Keep your aquarium in stock with great eating algae, and the problem should take care of itself (although it bears repeating that a certain amount of algae, particularly green algae, is expected ).

What to do when blue-green algae

The blue-green algae is technically not really an algae in the true sense of the word - is in fact a form of bacteria called cyanobacteria, a type of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. Cyanobacteria is one of the oldest agencies in the world, and is thought to have been around for at least 3.5 billion years!

It looks like a slimy coating in a number of blue-green shades, waste and discards, it may indeed be toxic to fish - another good reason to keep to a strict minimum.

The good thing about blue-green algae is that it is easy to remove manually: usually forms "sheets" of the matter suspended in water, which can easily be scooped.

The bad news is it's pretty rustic, even after complete removal, you usually are back the next day

This algae is usually caused by low levels of nitrates (often in combination with high levels of phosphate), and an imbalance of bacteria in the water.

How to get rid of this persistent eyesore:

* Block all light for a week and siphon the dead algae from the tank every day. Your plants will be feeling sorry for themselves by the seventh day, but they must recover.

* Add new bacteria after every water change. You can purchase bacteria pellets for this express purpose of your store for pets and Aquarium offers dealer. Ask for bacteria pellets that remove ammonia and excess protein water.

* Be strict with your tank maintenance: keep everything clean, check the filter for clogging, make sure the lights are working adequately (blue-green algae needs light to survive, but good fluorescents are necessary to maintain an adequate balance of bacteria and plant life in the tank).

What to do in case of green water

If water in your tank is green, cloudy and dark, then you have green water. It is a form of free-floating algae which hangs suspended in the water, giving it that characteristic opacity - in some cases, the water becomes so green that fish are no longer visible .

It is usually due to an excess of light (sunlight in general, as opposed to too much fluorescent), or a problem with your water quality.

To address this problem:

* Block all sunlight from reaching your tank for several days a week. You can do this by draping fabric of your tank or make all the curtains still drawn in the room where your aquarium is placed. This is very effective.

* Keep your filter mesh as fine as you can: most generic filters come with pretty coarse mesh, so replace it with a fine-meshed sponge or use a diatomic filter (designed specifically to address the problems of algae). Do not forget to regularly check the filter, or it will obstructed.

General algae prevention tips

Regular maintenance of your tank is one of the best preventive measures when it comes to algae:

* Change water regularly

* Clean regularly aquarium

* Use a UV filter in the tank

* Locate the container away from direct sunlight

* Do not overcrowd the fish

* Keep food at levels

* Reduce unless the ventilation of your aquarium is very well stocked: airstones vents and keep to a minimum

* Use your plants' nitrate and phosphate absorption capacity: stock your aquarium with lots of fast-growing species like Ambulia and Egeria

Maintaining a healthy, attractive aquarium can be a complex task - there's so much to keep track of!

For smart, relevant, comprehensive and easy to follow tips on keeping a standard of professional aquarium, we recommend Katy tropical fish - a complete guide.

It is packed with insider advice for holding a fabulous aquarium, regardless of budget and experience - all aspects of tropical aquarium maintenance are covered, health from fish to algae compatibility problems for fish. It is an owner's manual!

Freshwater Tropical Fish - 4 Must-Have Tips When Buying Your First Freshwater Tropical Fish

How did you choose a fish tropical freshwater? Well, we have some tips that can really save you time and aggravation. I love items that are in good shape, do not hesitate to read this article and print and take with you to your favorite pet store. Without further ado, here are some tips for fresh fish:

Fish size matters.

Most tropical fish that are available are not fully developed. Some of the different types stay the same size, while other types of get much bigger. You want to make sure your tank is big enough for your fish, especially if they are the type that do get much larger. If you're not the type who goes best in your tank, you want to talk to someone who has knowledge about the different types of tropical fish freshwater.

What is the diet of tropical fish be?

Not all types have the same food. Some of these fish eat live food, some will eat frozen food, some will eat flakes and some will eat anything. It is important to know what kind of food you eat fish because you have to be willing to invest time each day to ensure they receive the exact quantities of various fish foods. If you get more fish, it is recommended that you get tropical fish who eat the same food for fish.

How well your fish along with each other?

Believe it or not, every type of fish has its own personality and some of them can be aggressive, many types are known to stalkers. It is important that you tropical fish that have mutually compatible personalities. This will prevent them from entering notes with each other and wreak havoc with your tank.

What is the reservoir water temperature to be?

Tropical fish freshwater are not all from the same region. This means that for every type of tropical fish, the temperature in the reservoir will be different. Be sure to choose fish to be comfortable in the same range of temperature because you can only have one temperature in your tank.

As you can see, there is more than meets the eye when selecting your tropical freshwater. The tropical fish have many needs and not all tropical fish will play well together. Do some advance planning and research and you'll enjoy, long-lived fish. Remember, do not buy fish as an impulse buy, you and your fish May regret it. For more information on tropical fish freshwater please take the time to visit us. Thank you for reading and good luck.

Tropical Fish Breeding for Profit

At some point in your life you've probably had an aquarium in your home. Children around the world starting with guppies red and round in bowls on their buffets. For some people, this has led to a farmed fish in the tropical fish market.

Even looking at the recent series of films for children that are based underwater, you can see how the popularity of tropical fish is rising. Many tropical fish breeders have recorded sales growth over the past two years alone. This led the entire industry, responsible for the aquarium supplier of salt, increased sales and profits as well.

Raise tropical fish needs a bit of know-how and some specialized equipment. In general, tropical fish, it will take more space than the average of your Guppy, a large reservoir to put in place will be needed. Depending on how many species you want to raise will determine the number and size of tanks you need to run.

Also consider the number of offspring you might get each species. Some species of tropical fish can have hundreds of offspring at once. A percentage of those descendants will probably have to be slaughtered or destroyed, because their quality is not up to your standards for tropical fish breeding business. Small and the weak must be slaughtered in order not to cause problems throughout the reservoir environment.

Tropical fish breeding and raising fish to maturity, it will take time and patience. Do your homework on growth rates and reproductive rates of each species you intend to race. You will also need to know the compatibility of different species if you plan to work with more than one in your tropical fish breeding business.

Salts, water, water and test equipment are also a necessity and must be high quality. Water quality will not only play a crucial role in the survival of fish, but also in the success of your operation as a whole in your breeding of tropical fish. Tropical fish can be very tricky. Your education will save you time and if you learn more about each species you are breeding as possible. For example, copper will kill nearly all tropical fish, you will need to know how to set up conditions for the water your fish accordingly.

Of basic supplies such as food and water conditioners can be purchased from stores supplies the aquarium. However, you May Internet search to see if you can buy in bulk to save money on things you use most often - salts, conditioners, nets and others. You will also find a wealth of information on species, their natural conditions, captive breeding of fish, and more. You will often have you exposure to produce good quality and beautiful fish to ensure reproductive success of tropical fish.

Once you have started producing your fish, you'll need to bring to your market. The transport of tropical fish takes skill and timing. If you are shipping fish, which is becoming increasingly frequent, make sure you dispatch overnight to an address that will have a person present to accept the package on delivery. Always make sure your client recognizes this expedition arrangement in advance and is aware of your political statements and other allowances.

Pack your fish may also be difficult. There are several methods of packing live fish for transport that are effective and should deliver live. Depending on the size and oxygen requirements of the species depends on the type of packaging, you'll need.

Most of the time the fish are double bagged, a bag attached to the opening and upside down in another bag which is also linked. This prevents the corners of the closure on fish and also provides peace of mind against leakage. Packaging materials will be tight, but not crash, to keep the fish in bags upright. A good suggestion for frequent buyers of your fish is to offer a discount on their return they if your packing materials, such as additional cushioning and others can be expensive.

Tropical fish can be surprisingly beautiful and pleasant to watch. It is not surprising that tropical fish breeding is both profitable and rewarding. To prepare for this tropical fish breeding business will help you succeed. If you educate yourself at every turn on livestock, water, education and culling your fish, you are sure to make a big splash on the tropical fish industry.

The Nitrogen Cycle and Your Aquarium

When the fish, plants and foods in the aquarium a process known as nitrification occurs, it is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. This is not unique to aquariums; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action decomposes decomposing organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrites and nitrates.

These nitrifying bacteria can be described as beneficial or good bacteria, without the aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with the heterotrophic bacteria consume fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and their conversion into ammonia.

Ammonia (NH3) is a colorless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and it is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fish is in the form of ammonia, most of which are secreted by the gills. The rest excreted in faeces, is transformed into ammonia by heterotrophic bacteria.

Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish and must be removed or broken. Visual signs of fish to succumb to this toxicity include:

The blast on the surface

Cloudy eyes

Fins frayed

Indifferent behavior

Increased production of mucus

Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)

Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia, it may be dead, even after ammonia levels are under control. Small fish have a greater surface Gill on a larger fish, and are therefore more susceptible to toxic ammonia.

Water changes are the best way to solve the problems of ammonia. You must make partial changes of water more than a few days at low levels. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at stores and water are very useful to the elimination of various substances freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.

Moving to a fish tank security will terminate the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when the ammonia levels back to zero. If you have a high pH level, you can try to reduce the nearest 7.0, which will also reduce the toxicity of ammonia.

The pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, including ammonia and ammonium are included. pH is logarithmic, which is the factor controlling the presence of ammonia or ammonium.

Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, so if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then Ammonia is ammonium.

As pH increases, so does the toxicity of ammonia, ie a pH increased from 7.0 to 8.0 is ten times more in the hydroxyl ion (and a decrease the concentration of hydrogen) and, finally, a tenfold increase the toxicity of ammonia.

It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before increasing significantly the pH. Ammonia tests show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and Nitrosomonas bacteria consume ammonia and convert it to nitrite.

Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fish if not eliminated or converted to nitrate in the nitrogen cycle. 1ppm levels above must be removed by making important changes of water. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, tests regularly, until the level of nitrite reduced to zero.

Moving to a fish tank security will terminate the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank at nitrite reads zero. Symptoms of toxicity, nitrite:

Apathy

The blast on the surface

Blood and turning brown gills

Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if the pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in water, nitrite convert to nitrous acid. This too is highly toxic to fish.

Nitrate (NO3) is the final product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively nontoxic, although high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted to nitrate by bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the process of nitrification of work.

Some species are more tolerant than others nitrates, but such an approach would be to maintain levels below 50 ppm (mg / l). Some symptoms of the toxicity of nitrate would be:

Poor general health

Slow growth

Poor color

Less tolerance to the disease

Nitrate is an essential source of food for plants and algae, if you encourage the growth of healthy plants in your aquarium, the levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if the tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial change of water is necessary.

Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance generally retain control anyway. Ammonia and nitrite levels tend to be at their highest level in the first 4 to 6 weeks of a new aquarium. This is generally known as new tank syndrome.

Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is a highly toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations, it can cause rapid death. It is produced during the decomposition of organic matter that contains sulfur, and the action of dilute acid on sulfides (acid aquariums being at risk).

The usual cause of the aquarium is probably one of negligence, not the substrate keeping clean dirt and debris, thus enabling the deteriorating building. A first indication of this problem may be a sudden bloom of algae.

The toxic gas affects fish by linking the iron in hemoglobin blood, which blocks the absorption of oxygen, which causes symptoms, which include:

Respiratory problems

The blast on the surface

Unusual coloring gills

Aquarium maintenance, make sure to clean all the debris of the substrate, avoids the problem.