11.10.08

Freshwater Aquarium Fish Are Good Choice for Beginners

If you came to the conclusion that you want to set up an aquarium of tropical fish for the fun of yourself and your family, then you probably need some guidance on how to start. If you've never had an aquarium before, then it is advisable to start with aquarium fish fresh water, because they are easier to maintain.

Aquarium fish freshwater, as opposed to their bright and flashy cousins of the saltwater variety, can be a good experience for people who have never supported the fish before. Saltwater aquarium tanks can be very difficult to establish and maintain properly. For this reason, it is strongly recommended that these new keeping fish, first from freshwater fish. After being able to meet the challenges of keeping alive freshwater fish and their aquarium in good condition at this time, you can broaden your horizon keeping fish and branch water saltwater aquarium in the area.

Ultimately, no matter what kind of aquarium or tank that you choose for your aquarium fish fresh water as far as care and maintenance is concerned. However, if you can not keep to a regular, weekly cleaning and maintenance of the tank, then perhaps you should not even bother setting up an aquarium.

In addition, you will also need to monitor your tropical aquarium on a daily basis. You must be sure that water is always balanced for your aquarium fish and freshwater that good and comfortable temperature is constantly maintained. The other daily task that you must remember to do is to ensure that your fish receive the correct amount and type of food needed.

After determining that you will be able to follow the regular maintenance of aquarium fish fresh water, then you can start to decide on what kind of fish you want to include in your tropical aquarium. The tropical aquarium you choose must be large enough so that it can accommodate the number and types of fish that you intend to buy. The overcrowding of a tropical aquarium can be a fatal mistake, because it can cause water tanks and contaminated fish can lead to patients. Before making your final decision, be sure to ask the size of the fish will be selected at maturity, that the size may vary greatly depending on the species. A beginner keeping fish might want to start with 10 to 20 gallons tropical aquarium and fill it with small and heartier varieties of freshwater fish.

To maintain a healthy environment for your fish aquarium freshwater, you'll need to have a quality system for filtering water, a water heater reliable and beautiful aquarium decorations and accessories. When creating your aquarium tropical freshwater, be sure to choose a location in the house where light and temperature can be controlled so that it remains constant. And remember that once your tropical aquarium is created and filled, it will be very heavy, so make sure it is on solid flooring that can handle the load.

Aquarium Equipment Explained - The Aquarium

No doubt your first thought is to go out and buy your new aquarium (do not buy your fish at this time, preparation needs to be done for them first), careful consideration must be exercised in your choice. The aquarium you choose should be as large as you can afford or adaptation. Obviously, the greater will Aquariums contain a greater water volume, which is a great advantage of keeping water to more stable conditions.

Ideally, your aquarium should have as large an area as possible, which is where the oxygen that fish need to survive is absorbed, and the carbon dioxide that their expulsion is released. In any event, I recommend a minimum size of 24x12x12ins (60x30x30cm), which would have a capacity of 12.5 gallons (56L).

Although you can buy aquariums in different forms these days, or even a mere part of a certain part of your home, you should bare in mind that the fish you have in your aquarium home to live in it for the rest of their lives. Therefore, it is necessary to examine whether the choice of your aquarium is the right choice for your fish.

To calculate the capacity of your aquarium, multiply your aquarium length x width x height (in inches), divide by 1728 result = cu.feet, multiply the result by 6.25 = gallons, multiply the result by 4.55 = l. About 10% should be deducted to allow gravel etc.

A word of warning at this stage, water is very heavy in these quantities, an aquarium of the above dimensions when the establishment is likely to weigh more than 200 pounds (90 kg). I estimate my 4ft tank about a third of a ton. A stand or sufficient built cabinet is essential. If the weight of this magnitude to be rested on floors supported by beams, it is important that the cabinet stand or be placed at right angles to, and can be found in the joists.

Before you create your aquarium or add weight to this issue at all, but make a piece of polystyrene to be placed between the surface of your cabinet and the base of your aquarium is to absorb any imperfection or distortion the game between the two surfaces, a piece of sandstone, for example, trapped between two surfaces could quite easily decipher the bottom of your tank fully loaded. Aquatic stores usually stock polystyrene sheets of various sizes for this purpose.

Some manufacturers now build aquarium glass aquarium in such a way that they can be placed directly onto a surface without the need for a sheet of polystyrene below. More information and what type is best for you is available at your local store water.

Very often, aquariums are purchased with the cover and lid. If you buy an aquarium that has not any type of coverage, it would be wise to buy one separately. The hood prevents the fish from escaping, and also help prevent heat loss and evaporation, they also provide lighting. Personally, I prefer the appearance of a cover timber. Whatever you choose, make sure to cover condensation or tray is mounted between the water and cover to prevent the formation of condensation on the electric light fitting. I use sheets of clear Perspex cut the size of the form of sliding doors for food etc.

It is very likely that you want to add gravel at the bottom of your aquarium as a substrate. He also made an excellent media when used with a filtration system undergravel. If the gravel is to be used at all, you must ensure that there is no hardness, which means no limestone materials, such as limestone, coral, chalk, etc, and a size too big or too small, about 4 to 5mm.

When gravel is used in the aquarium, it will clean regularly, this task is made much easier with a gravel cleaner. It consists of a length of plastic pipe, attached to a piece of plastic is a cylinder is placed in the gravel, where the gravel is waved around the bottle and dirty water is sucked through the tube by gravity, and a bucket for removal, leaving behind clean gravel. Low voltage empty gravel are available, but they are obviously more expensive.

Remember, when choosing an aquarium you need to understand what the needs are fish and not only aesthetically pleasing how you can do. This is a case of compromise to get this right and everybody is happy, and you're on your way to achieving the success of your aquarium set-up.

10.10.08

Protein Skimmers

A Protein Skimmer is a filter that removes dissolved organic substances and waste water.
Protein Skimming is the only filter that removes organic compounds physically before they begin to decompose, lighten the load on the biological filter and improving the redox potential of water (oxygen) potential. Protein shaving eliminates some organic compounds, including proteins and amino acids, using mutual opposition of the protein itself.

Protein skimmers can be classified in two ways, according to co-operate in current or against the current. The proteins and waste products cling to the fine accumulation of air bubbles in a collection of the neck, mounted, brim and more waste in a cup question. Organic matter in water, proteins, amino same elements that May be desired, are attracted by the fine bubbles produced by the protein skimmer, they largely work better in "dirty" water salinity increases tension surface, which is necessary to attract surfactants.

Protein skimming (also known as split foam) can be considered a form of mechanical filtration because it is a physical process of removing substances from water, no chemical or biological. Protein skimmers actively remove waste products from fish, plants, invertebrates and (along with any dead organisms or uneaten food) before it has a chance to break and compromise the quality of water.

Skimmers work by the injection of many tiny bubbles in the water column at high speed and suction pumps air through a venturi tube. They create a "foam" or "foam" in the reaction chamber. stripping of organic particles dissolved in water before you can decomposition of ammonia and nitrate exchange through the nitrogen cycle. Scavengers that produce bubbles of different sizes and different adjustments which produce difference is like an aquarium result.Marine protein skimmers are abundant in the aquarium industry today, each claiming some unique feature to distinguish itself as the best .

Saltwater tanks are able to maintain using only a protein skimmer and biological filtration. Removing the oily film on the surface of the water within a saltwater aquarium is expected to transfer organic before it can be decomposed by bacteria. Marine creatures are generally very sensitive to organic waste, because they are natives of the ocean where organic waste is instantly diluted by the huge mass of water.

Setting Up An Aquarium - Planning And Positioning

A carefully planned and well situated aquarium can be a beautiful focal point of any room. Building such an aquarium in May seems a daunting task if you're a newcomer to the fishkeeping hobby. It is not necessary provided you follow some basic rules of fishkeeping, which are explained in my guides and on my website.

First thing you need to do is gather all the information you can, take a look around your local aquatic shops, those who specialize in fish and aquatic supplies, not the Pet Shop which just a few fish tanks in the corner of the shop as a gap.

This information gathering will also give you the opportunity to compare prices between supply stores, and the chance to speak to staff, they can generally offer good advice. It is a good idea to establish a relationship with someone you can trust and knows what they are talking about.

It is also advisable to read one or more of many books and magazines available. There are many theories fishkeeping, as you will discover (even if the basic rules are always observed). Therefore, if you have a little knowledge you can make comparisons, and be able to make decisions on your own, and be a good idea of what you want from the hobby.

When you acquire a reasonable knowledge, and made a final decision to launch an aquarium tropical freshwater, it's time to draw up a shopping list of equipment. Do not buy fish at this time. The fish should be added at your aquarium filters have had time to mature, it would be at least two to three weeks and then only if the correct results are obtained.

After dialing your shopping list do not forget to add the cost, it would be a shame to get partially implemented, only short of money. Think about where you put your aquarium. Position first and foremost where your fish will be minimal disruptions, a constant flow of traffic from people in your aquarium fish will be nervous, to say the least.

However, you also want to place where it can easily be seen, where you will have no difficulty in obtaining for maintenance. Avoid placing it near your heating source room, or would be in constant direct sunlight, these positions because fluctuations in temperature, and excess sunlight to promote the growth of unsightly algae.

Remember that when your aquarium is fully implemented, it will be very heavy, a gallon of water weighs ten pounds, so an aquarium measuring 24x12x12inches, when filled with water, gravel, etc. excess weight 200 pounds (90kg). Your stand or cabinet must be sufficiently robust to withstand such weight, and if you are setting up an aquarium raised floors to make sure that your stand is at right angles and lies across the floors of support .

If you plan to work in the craft room, it would be useful to do before setting up your aquarium, once your tank is established, it will be difficult or impossible to move. Also paint or other chemical vapors can be absorbed by the water, and could have a toxic effect on fish.

Getting started: Wash your new freshwater aquarium clean, do not use soap or detergent. Remember to place a sheet of polystyrene with good size beneath the base of your aquarium, some reservoirs do not need this precaution, they are designed with a floating base, which stops the bottom coming into contact with the stand (ask at the shop).

If you use a film background scenery, it is time to put on the back of your aquarium glass (outside), use a tape and keep close to the periphery, and tight for that the glass you can. It is now time to the position of your aquarium in its permanent seat, you need help to do so, even a small aquarium with its equipment, furniture and gravel will be heavy.

Use a spirit level to ensure that your stand and the aquarium are the same. There is nothing worse than seeing an aquarium that is not level, as you know, water finds its own level and when it does show you what level your aquarium really is. Now step back and won a cup of coffee while you make sure it is in the right place ... before adding the weight of water.

9.10.08

How Hard is it to Set Up a Tropical Fish Tank?


This will depend largely on the quantity of knowledge you have on the subject. If you are not well informed as you want May to research the project before starting. The process is basically simple, but if done incorrectly, your fish will pay the price.

The first thing necessary is the purchase of good elements to keep your tropical fish tank working properly. The most important thing you need is a tank of heating. Since the fish you are used to keep swimming in warm water, you'll need to keep your tank at this temperature. A good heater will allow fish to swim as if they were in their own local water, resulting in a better set of tropical fish tank.

A filter is another key element to the installation of a tropical aquarium. The filter must be large enough to manage the size of your tank. The filter is the main source keeping the water clean and clear to better keep your fish healthy. The absence of a filter or a filter can lead to improper water and green algae deposits on your tank. This is not the desired effect of any tank and should be avoided.

The stand for your tropical fish tank add emphasis on the tank. It can be purchased or constructed to add style to what has been known to be an eyesore of a room. The stand must be strong enough to handle the weight of your shell and the water it held. Make sure the stand can manage your tank or the result could be costly.

Establishment of good tropical fish tank is not a difficult process. If you provide the necessary tools, you should have no problems. The heater, filtering and to play a central role in maintaining a tropical aquarium. They are all necessary and should not be left out of the process. They allow you to enjoy your tropical aquarium at most.

Aquarium Equipment Explained - Water Test Kits


Although tap water is generally a substitute for a natural fish needs water, it requires some steps to take before it can be used in the aquarium. The water supply network have been treated so that makes it safe for humans to drink.

Chlorine is used in our water supply systems, which kills bacteria and disinfects the water. There may also be metal contamination in tap water because of this transport to homes through Pipeline, copper for example.

Chemicals added to our water supplies are potentially deadly to fish. These chemicals can attack the gills and mucus membrane that covers and protects the body of the fish, making them vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infections. Heavy metals can also be found in our tap water, such as copper, lead, zinc, which are toxic to all tropical fish.

It is necessary to treat tap water before it goes into the aquarium. There are a number of manufacturers that make dechlorinate tap water, they generally contain other additives provided that the water and fish with a protective barrier Aloe Vera.

Regular monitoring of your aquarium water is essential. It is possible to harmful pollutants that can not be seen, to enter the water in your aquarium without your knowledge. These pollutants can pose a great danger to fish, so the only way to be sure of its condition is to regularly test the water.

There are many tests that indicate your state of water and its properties here are the most important.

Ammonia / ammonium Test:

Ammonia is highly soluble in water, it is eliminated by all fish, and is extremely toxic to them. A by-product of ammonia is ammonium, less toxic, it is formed by the acceptance of a proton from a molecule of ammonia, and is present at low pH.

Ammonia will increasingly be toxic at levels higher pH, and to a lesser degree of temperature. This test gives an early warning of a failing filtration system, probably because of surplus stocks of fish, food or more. Ammonia tests measure the total ammonia, which is a mixture of ammonia and ammonium.

To determine the quantity of toxic ammonia that May be present in your water, you'll need to know its pH, temperature and test. You can then compare the results of your test against the map provided with the test kit to determine if ammonia is present, and to what extent the ideal result should be zero.

Nitrite test:

Ammonia is down and converted to nitrite by bacteria nitrifying (Nitrosomonas bacteria), although less toxic than ammonia, nitrite is still very dangerous to fish. A presence of nitrites usually, a bacterially immature or inefficient filtration system, can be excessive and / or food. This test indicates the level of nitrite, if any is present. Levels above 1.0 mg / L (ppm) for freshwater aquariums are considered dangerous, ideally, as with ammonia, readings should be zero.

Nitrate Test:

Nitrite is down and converted to nitrate, this is the end product of the nitrogen cycle and is used as a food source by plants and algae. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic, but so high is observed from your test result, it is indicative of a partial change of water is necessary.

pH test:

As different species of fish from different waters of the world, so that the pH of the water different, it is necessary to simulate the conditions of our best. A test your water pH indicate acidity or alkalinity.

Sudden changes in pH should be avoided, causing stress to fish, reducing their resistance to disease, for this reason it is very important that all adjustments pH is gradually over a period of time.

Hardness testing of water:

Most species of fish do not like hard alkaline water, some species live, however, in difficult conditions and need alkaline water to survive. Under conditions of poor fish of any type will not be able to race, color be wrong, and have a low resistance to disease. It is therefore necessary to determine what type of water you have in your aquarium for the sake of your survival.

There are two types of test hardness, one would confirm its GH (general hardness), and is a measure of all salts dissolved in water, these salts are mainly composed of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) . RI may also be called total hardness.

The other test is carbonate hardness (KH) or temporary hardness, and is commonly known as alkalinity. It is a measure of the ability of water to neutralize acid, and is known as buffering capacity. Therefore, the hardness of water is closely linked to pH.

8.10.08

Setting Up An Aquarium - Building Your Fishes Home

Thus, the decision is made, you will keep tropical fish. You've read everything you can find on the hobby and you're all Fired Up ready to begin. You have been purchased and you new aquarium, you have at home and found a suitable location for it, and you are seeking and finish the job, can not wait to see everything in place.

Do not be tempted to put in water in your aquarium again!

Do not rush things, patience is a virtue in this hobby, it is better to take all day to put things, to dive into rush things and to find something wrong and begin to have again to make it right. Although in reality, it will be more like half a day.

Follow these steps and you will find things easier in the long term.

If you've decided on a undergravel filtration system to the undergravel plates and tubes raise now. This is a fairly simple job, you May to reduce some of the plates to make it a worthy of your aquarium, but there's nothing complicated there.

Gravel should be washed thoroughly before it goes into your aquarium (it will be full of dust). Put a little at a time in a bucket of water and run through it from the tap or pipe at the same time, stirring and shaking gravel, it takes some time to get any dust on the gravel, so be patient, it is worth it if you do not want a mess cloudy when you put water in the aquarium. When water goes from the gravel and then it's OK to put in the aquarium.

In theory, you should take the gravel tracks so that the back of the aquarium at the front, this aid debris to accumulate in front of the aquarium when it is up and running, this which makes it easier to clean. In fact, I think the gravel does not stay that way, it finds its own level. However, you should aim at a depth of about two to three inches (5 to 8 cm).

Set the heater aquarium to about 76F (25C) and place it on the back of the aquarium glass at an angle of 45 degrees, close but not touching the gravel. It should be placed near an output filter, or there is a movement of water, so the heat can be distributed around the tank. Do not plug it yet! Aquarium heater must be immersed in water before being lit, irreparable damage could be caused.

ATTENTION an aquarium heater is hot enough to burn when the grave and not in the water.

Powerhead can now be placed on top of the guaranteed student at the aquarium provided with hooks or suckers. Do not connect in Powerhead! They need to be submerged, they are cooled and lubricated by water, and dry operation can cause irreparable damage.

Internal filters can be placed either side of the aquarium, or back, just insert the media in the filter chamber and attach the filter of a glass with the brackets provided or suckers. As with Powerhead not connect again!

If you decided to use an external filter instead of the above options, you can set it up now, according to the manufacturer's instructions. The characteristics of these filters May differ slightly from one to another and according to each manufacturer, but they all work basically the same, the pickup location of the strainer in the aquarium.

Place all air features (air stones, etc.) in the aquarium, and use the tube out of the tank to the air pump. Unless you use a check valve (non-return valve) to the airline, it is important to have the air pump higher than your water level, water could siphon back on line otherwise.

Rocks should be washed carefully and gently placed in the aquarium, no longer do this kind is heavy, and avoid the risk of reversal, you might consider liaison with the aquarium seals, do not forget to let dry the sealant before putting any water in the aquarium.

Bogwood Mopani and wood are very attractive pieces of scenery, (do not forget to soak the bogwood for at least one week before use), try a little aquascaping using wood and / or Rockwork form of terraces rather than a flat extent of gravel. This kind of scene can be beneficial in hiding the equipment you put in the tank.

If you want to use artificial plants instead to live among them; they look quite natural and do not require regular size, you can now put these in the aquarium. Try to position your plants so that the largest of those at the back and shorter forward, creating a beautiful effect and help hide the equipment, as well as a natural part of your fish.

You're finished with a number of plugs on the back of your tank, use a multi-socket to plug in the block and make sure you keep the wiring away. But remember not to connect any of the equipment in the power before putting water in the aquarium.

So now that you liked you build your aquarium, the next task is to put water in.

Maintain Tank Temperature With A Fish Tank Chiller


As its name suggests, fish tank cooling are designed to keep water in your reservoir of fresh fish in warm climates. They are mainly used in marine aquarium where the fish tend to be very sensitive to temperature fancy goldfish although in tropical climates also benefit from the use of an aquarium cooler. An added benefit is that cooler water has a greater capacity for dissolved oxygen in order to avoid problems with low oxygen levels in your aquarium.

When do you need the aquarium cooler?

An aquarium cooler will be necessary when you run an aquarium with fish who prefer to live in cold water only. Aquarium of chillers will maintain the temperature of the water if you wish. Changing the temperature is something you must do it yourself, manually.

An alternative to a chiller is to launch an air conditioner in the room that contains the aquarium, running but the air conditioning to maintain the aquarium water at the desired temperature can be a very expensive option. And even if an aquarium cooler May seem like an expensive item, it will soon pay for itself if you do not use air conditioning days - especially if you're not at home during the day or you're on vacation.

Another alternative is cooler add ice to the tank, but it's very useful unless it is a very short-term method to deal with conditions of heat wave. If you need to add ice to your tank can be added by water freezing in a bottle. The frozen water bottle can be lowered into the tank or hung on the side of the tank.

For hot climates and for fish that naturally need cold water there is no real alternative but to a cooling unit. It is also possible to buy an aquarium heating and cooling in a unit that can be used year to maintain the water temperature in summer and winter.

When choosing your cooler you will have the choice of thermoelectric, online or declining aquarium cooler.

Thermoelectric coolers are commonly used in small tanks under 60 gallons capacity. They are energy efficient and quiet operation and can be used in both salt and fresh water.

Drop-in coolers are commonly used in saltwater aquariums or whole reefs UPS. They do not require plumbing and others are mounted in line with the tank filter. They are simple to install and low maintenance requirements.

Online aquarium are manufactured for coolers tanks with a capacity of 60 gallons or more. They have an engine, a compressor and cooling fans and will need a well ventilated area for installation. May they require professional installation and are quite large.

A thermometer aquarium is a need inexpensive to use in conjunction with your tank cooler. If your refrigerator breaks down or mismanages the temperature of your aquarium, you need to know immediately. A thermometer is a reliable means of temperature monitory.

The main disadvantages of the aquarium cooling are the cost of the units themselves - which can vary from several hundred to several thousand dollars - and the energy they consume, what can be 80-100 watts per hour.

7.10.08

How To Breed Bettas


Bettas are a member of the family Gourami. The most popular is the Betta Betta splendens (sometimes referred to as the Siamese fish or the fight against Pla Kat in this native of Thailand). They are popular in aquariums because they have a shape / color and are very active. This article will discuss some of the things you need to know and advice for raising Bettas.

Like many cichlids the male Betta is responsible for the education of youth. Bettas are divided into two subgroups according to their method of rearing the Betta Fry. They can be either a mouth brooder or a bubble NESTER. Mouth brooders keep young people in their mouth for safety. Betta splendens are typical bubble nest. The male will create a nest near the water surface. It will consist of bubbles and saliva that is used to give the nest durability and protect the eggs and fry in the future.

The construction of a nest of bubbles is often a sign that the man Bettas are ready to reproduce (but not always). The female is ready to reproduce when his body changes. The abdomen is round and full. The white ovipositor at the end of the oviduct becomes important.

It is generally a good idea to pair breeding in an aquarium. This will prevent other fish in a tank to eat the fry or eggs. It will also allow you to delete the male or female Bettas after livestock, thus protecting each other. Water must have a neutral pH, with a temperature of about 28 deg. Celsius (83F)

Once the pair are men engaging in a vast courtyard. He will try to encourage women to come to bubblenest. Once this happens, it dart on it and they mate. Females release many eggs that float at the bottom of the tank. The male will be the turn of the eggs with his mouth and place them under the nest of bubbles.

The female Bettas can be removed from the tank after mating. The men tend the nest. In about 24 to 48 hours, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia started development and begin to move. You can remove the man at this point.

The larvae develop in the miniatures of their parents after about 3 weeks. In a few months they will be fully developed and can be transferred to other tanks or resold. This is not a good idea to keep men Bettas together because they are fighting. The key to health and rapid growth of fry is to maintain good water quality and temperature around 28 deg. Celsius mark.

The Goldfish Versus The Beta

À la fois le poisson rouge et la version bêta sont des choix populaires pour les animaux de compagnie, et les deux sont soupçonnés d'être un animal de compagnie peu d'entretien. Donc, ce qui rend le meilleur animal de compagnie?

Le poisson rouge est la plus commune pour animaux de compagnie dans le monde. Il a besoin d'un réservoir, mais jamais un juste un petit poisson rouge bol ou petit conteneur. Comme tous les autres poissons, il a besoin d'oxygène, et le poisson rouge regroupe l'oxygène de la surface de sa maison. Surface est le plus important en fournissant suffisamment d'oxygène pour votre poisson rouge.

Mesure la surface en multipliant un réservoir de longueur par sa profondeur. Pour chaque pouce de poisson, vous devriez avoir au moins 30 pouces carrés de surface, et aussi prendre en considération le fait que vous êtes le poisson va augmenter. Assurez-vous d'avoir amplement d'espace et de surface pour votre animal de compagnie poisson rouge.

Goldfish communément vivre au moins dix ans s'il est entretenu correctement. Ils sont omnivores et mangent presque tout. Il est recommandé de s'en tenir à des aliments préemballés poisson, si. Nourrir les poissons rouges pas plus qu'il va manger en quelques minutes. Les restes de polluer le réservoir, il doit donc être retiré après l'allaitement. Nourrir les poissons plusieurs fois par jour au lieu d'un grand repas.

La température de l'eau idéal pour un poisson rouge est partout de 50 degrés à 68 degrés Fahrenheit, de manière générale, l'eau à la température de la pièce est bien. L'eau du robinet est aussi bien pour poisson rouge, mais assurez-vous de laisser siéger pendant la nuit afin que le chlore s'évapore d'elle.

En résumé, le poisson rouge sera amende dans une grande citerne filterless avec la température de la pièce, de-chlorés de l'eau du robinet.

En version bêta est un poisson très commun tenus comme animaux de compagnie. Les mâles sont plus colorés, mais ne jamais plus d'un mâle dans un réservoir. En version bêta sont également dénommé "Lutte contre la Siamois poisson», et les hommes prêts à se battre les uns les autres si conservés dans le même réservoir.

La durée de vie de la version bêta est seulement deux à trois ans, et comme ils sont à l'origine d'un climat tropical, la nécessité Betas réchauffement de l'eau, de préférence dans les années 80. Ils deviendront indifférent lorsque la température de l'eau tombe en dessous de 75 degrés Fahrenheit. L'eau doit également être neutre à légèrement acide de pH, assurez-vous donc de vérifier régulièrement le pH, et de traiter l'eau en tant que de besoin.

Tout comme poisson rouge, versions bêta exiger beaucoup de surface pour l'oxygène. Ils ont des systèmes de respiration qui les obligent à obtenir l'oxygène de la surface, assurez-vous donc de les abriter dans un grand réservoir.

Pour résumer, versions bêta requièrent une attention particulière à leur alimentation en eau. Ils sont bien filterless dans un réservoir, mais l'eau mai besoin d'être chauffé et traités pour le pH.

Bottom line - les poissons n'ont pas besoin de filtres pour leurs chars, mais elles exigent beaucoup de surface pour l'oxygène. Goldfish sont généralement moins d'entretien, car elles nécessitent seulement la température de la pièce, de-chlorés de l'eau du robinet. Exiger des versions bêta de chauffage dans la plupart des cas, mai et exigent également régulièrement des traitements de l'eau pour le niveau de pH.

Globalement, les poissons rouges sont robustes, d'entretien inférieur animal de compagnie qui vivent beaucoup plus longtemps.

Angel Fish A Great Addiction To Any Tropical Fish Tank

Angelfish is one of the most beautiful and beautiful fish. Because of their exceptional beauty, they became the most popular fish among all holders of fish in the world. Angelfish is a fish that is found in the river slowly flowing waters of America. It is perhaps the most recognizable beautiful fish available. Angelfish is a member of the cichlid family and is available in various colors as black, silver, gold and a combination thereof. They have a compressed cylindrical body which distinguishes it from other fish. With its long dorsal fin and became a favorite among the holders of fish.

Aside from research, there are several other factors that promote Angelfish to be one of the best choices among more fish guards. Angelfish is one of the easiest spawning fish to reproduce. It is very easy to feed Angelfish, they can live only on food as flakes, but it is always advisable to keep them on different foods. Brine shrimp, black worms, and mosquito larvae are all major food Angelfish. Frozen blood to help maintain the varied diet live where food is not available.

To keep Angelfish, you need a 30-gallon aquarium or large, depending on the number and size of fish. Going in aquarium angel to always keep in mind that you have gravel that is at least 1 / 4 inch thick and Aquarium is at least 24 inches deep. The deeper the reservoir is the largest angel fish will grow. You will need to maintain the temperature of the water from the aquarium around 70-80 - Fahrenheit.

Although Angelfish is delicate in appearance, but they are reasonably hardy species. At angelfish are sometimes very violent, so while keeping the small fish in the tank, take into account this factor.

Apart from this, angelfish are supposed to be one of the most intelligent fish and they always go together and have the ability to recognize the fish keeper. In general keeping an Angelfish tank is a big plus for the beauty of your home. Angel fish tanks are easy to maintain and joy you have in the maintenance of all Angelfish is long term, if what you seek, go order a tank Angelfish

6.10.08

Goldfish Breeding, Part 2

Fry Development

In the previous article we talked about fish farming laying of the first through 2 -3 months. This article will focus on the development of 3 - 6 months of age.

When goldfish reach the age of 3 months, about 2 to 3 culls have taken place. The initial culling is carried out to remove the fish that have obvious deformities, or do not meet the general requirements race. The slaughter of these steps can be given to people who want to fish, pet, children in the neighborhood, or humanely destroyed. I prefer to give fish, and there appears to be a market of people who would like fish. This process usually takes a little longer, but makes people happy and save fish.

By the age of three months, body and style finnage begin to take their final form. Color will begin to take shape, and although the metal fish can take up to a year for staining to occur. Characteristics of the race (as head of growth, eyes, etc.) will begin to develop.

A fourth slaughter must be carried out at about 4 - 5 months to select the fish to be raised by the deadline. On a clutch of several hundred to several thousand fish, no more than 5 - 10 fish should be maintained for final grow-out. There are several reasons for this low percentage of fish that are selected for grow-out. The main reason is space, it is simply not enough space to raise all the fish are spawned. If not given enough space, the fish will not grow to optimal size. The second reason is the food: raising a large number of fish requires a lot of food. The third reason is water quality, proper maintenance of water is difficult face of big fish. The last reason is genetic: Most fish will have some sort of defect or undesirable feature to display.

By the age of six months, fish are much race variety, but not all the characteristics of the variety will be fully developed yet. Finally, the fish look like their parents.

Goldfish Breeding, Part 1

Each year, as the days lengthen in spring, yellow maturity begin the process of egg production in females, and milt in males. Many of these changes are increasingly triggered by daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and mosquito larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors adds to the evolution of fish.

The changes that occur in goldfish include swelling of the general female, the eggs begin to grow, and the appearance of small bumps, or "root" on the edges of the pectoral fins, and the slip covers for men.

In warmer climates, May goldfish outdoor begin spawning at the end of April, but in most other areas, red fish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fry without apparent indications, especially if the fish are kept in a pond, and a mixed population. For fish kept in aquariums, the signs are present, if the fish is observed.

Spawning takes place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity appears to be triggered by several factors, including: rain on the day preceding the spawning and a drop in water temperature a few degrees, partial water changes and a full or nearly full moon.

Spawning generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs are laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally very small, round and sticky. Please see table below taken eggs in an aquarium interior, to get an idea of the size and remove shape.Please adult fish after spawning, if you want more babies. Adults eat fish eggs (and the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia) after a spawn. Baby fish, once admitted, will not be eaten by fish red at maturity. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach ½ "to 1" in size.

The eggs hatch usually from 4 - 7 days, depending on water temperature. The fry are very small at the time of hatching, and food for the first 3 -5 days in the yellow bag attached. At hatching, and for a period of about two weeks after hatching, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia remains committed to the surface where the eggs were laid, or near the water surface. As their swim bladder begins to operate, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia will start swimming at different levels of the aquarium.

After the fry have depleted their yolk sacks, you should start to feed their food. Start foods can include: newly hatched brine shrimp, boiled egg yolk and infusorians. For people who have an outdoor pool, food can supplement the food that the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is in the pond. For those who have housed the fish in an aquarium, food will be provided by the owner.

After a few weeks, crumbled flake food, small fry food, freeze-dried crumbled into the blood, daphnia and brine shrimp can be fed to fishing. During the early development phase, feed the fish several times a day (may-3 - 5 times a day) in small quantities. It is important to monitor water quality and make regular water changes, as certain foods (especially egg yolk) can lack of water.

Metal fish begin to color, which is to change the nature of the green, 2 - 3 months. For nacreous mat and fish, colors tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous Matte fish and start out with a white color, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing age fish.

If you are raising fry breeding or show, you should select the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia that meet characteristics that you have established in your breeding. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tail tripod (in the case of two varieties tail), and other physical defects can be eliminated or given starting at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics, is known as the "slaughter".

A second slaughter may occur at 8 - 10 weeks and will focus on color and adherence to high standards. 3rd slaughter may be done 3 months, when most fish will begin to meet the special races, such as growth of the head, eyes, development, pearl and scales. It is not uncommon for only 5 - 10% of a rogue to stay third after the slaughter. While some people oppose the idea of giving fish spawn or slaughter, goldfish will not thrive in crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.

That approach fish 2 - 3 months of age, try to feed a larger percentage of live animals, frozen or freeze-dried food. Increasing the protein content in food is necessary for growth and head pearl scales in particular. Avoid food supply floating, which, while good for koi, and not very useful for red fish, especially the double-bodied fish tail. Continued feeding of food because the floating goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, May and disturb fish balance. Sinking pellets or granules of food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen foods.

For those interested to make their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online and GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also included revenue home.

A final culling can be achieved in six months, which will be conducted to select fish to grow and survive the winter. This selection will be based on a combination of compliance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. At the end of the 4th slaughter, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of laying remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.

Koi - The Jewels Of The Pond

With their striking colors, beautiful shape, and graceful movements, Koi are considered the jewels of the pond. From humble beginnings as wild carp, these fish have been domesticated and bred in the famous beauties they are today. Once owned by the rich, are now Koi loved and kept in garden ponds across the world. As the owner of a pond or future Koi enthusiast, you want May to learn to say the fundamental differences between the thirteen types of Koi and distinguish a fish of high quality from a regular, colorful one.

Koi, or Nishikigoi as the Japanese call them, are more than 100 different varieties, but were reduced to thirteen major groups, as indicated above. They are as follows: Kohaku, Sanke-Taisho, Showa-Sanshoku, Bekko, Utsurimono, Asagi Shusui, ogon, Koromo, Hikari-Moyomono, Hikari-Utsurimono, Kawarimono, Kinginrin and Tancho. It is difficult to connect all types of Koi at the beginning, but with practice and determination it will become easier.

Before you can begin to classify Koi you must first know the basic body shape and anatomy of fish. A Koi is usually bilateral symmetrical. What does this mean? If you were to draw a line along the dorsal (upper) end of the tip of the snout to the tip of the tail, the shape of two pieces are the same. Although this is a good character, it is a must in any event Koi.

Like most carp, Koi have barbells, a dorsal fin, pectoral fins, pelvic fins, an anal fin and a tail (tail) end. If a Koi is missing either of these it is considered abnormal and of poor quality.

The head of the fish should be the normal proportion of the body. It should not be very long or short. The mouth should be lower, which means it opens from the bottom, like most fish scavenger.

Now that you know a Koi basic body shape and requirements, you can learn about color variations.

The best known is the Koi Kohaku. Kohaku has light skin (Koi have two basic colors skin, white and blue) with red marks. This is the simple variety to the place and without doubt the most beautiful. A good quality milk white skin and deep red ground. The most admired model is the springboard modes-3-5 red mark resembling a rock track.

Then there's the Taisho Sanke-or short Sanke. It has the same color variation Kohaku (white with red markings) with a third black, a color less obvious. A high quality Snake will be red (with any other color) on his head and an interesting pattern of red and black.

The third is the Showa-Sanshoku, Showa short. It's the same three colors that distinguish Sanke. However, black is the background color and there are red and white it. Showa an ideal has deep black marks and an interesting pattern of red and white.

The Bekko is two color with small black on top of another white, yellow and red are the most common. There are many kinds of Bekko's. The standard is the Bekko-Shiro (white to black.)

Two other colored Koi is the Utsurimono. Like the Bekko, it is black and another color. But black is the main color and there are spots or marks another white, red and yellow.

The Asagi Shusui skin is a blue Koi with white edges and red on the gills, stomach and pectoral fins. They look neat and Germany (Doitsu) scales. The German scales are generally more or imitation leather (not at all scales.)

Koromo are blue with fish scales. There are different types of Koromos such as Aigoromo and Sumigoromo. Koromo The word comes from the word garment. This fish looks like she wears a blue veil wide net or on top of its colors.

A ogon is a Koi with a metallic luster. They are generally white or gold. They must have only one color and have the Doitsu scales. A good ogon is robust with a beautiful muscular structure.

Another is the metallic Koi Hikari-Moyomono. They are a race of the Ogoni and have more than one color.

The Hikari-Utsurimono Koi is a metal which is a cross between the Ogoni and the Showa. They have the color of a Showa-black as the main color, with red and white, but the marks are as bright ogon.

Kinginrin are a shining bright Koi. Do not confuse with ogon which are metallic. Kinginrin have a sparkle in each scale, but not all. They may be with the flash of gold or silver. Koi for an award, it must be at least 20 shiny scales. These are very low Koi Dark ponds because of their exceptional visibility.

Koi are the Tancho with Hi (red) patch on their head. The patch can not be connected to other brands and should be contrasted with a white skin. It can not cover the eyes and is only recognized on the Kohaku, Sanke and Showa variations.

The last variation of Koi is the Kawarimono. In simple terms, they are Koi that do not correspond to any other category. This category was invented in order to sell and shows. Although they are not worth as twelve other varieties, these Koi are very beautiful and an addition to any collection.

These are changes recognized Koi. There is also the butterfly or a fine of Koi. They have abnormally, yet beautiful long fins. This category is not recognized by the Japanese in Koi shows. In the United States, this type is high and sold in large quantities. They are a gracious and welcomed family member Koi.

If you are interested, including those in single fish pond in your garden or willing to learn and keep them as a hobby, it is always good to be able to identify each type of Koi. This will not only help you make an informed decision when purchasing your new friends, but it will also help you appreciate the diversity of Koi even more. Some say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I say beauty is in the eye of the holder Koi!

5.10.08

Aquarium Equipment Explained - Filtration

As a newcomer to the aquarium hobby, you may not be aware that as well as making your aquarium water clear, so that you can see your beautiful fishes, the main task of a filter is to break down the waste that fish produce.

It is the nitrifying bacteria or friendly bacteria that live in the media of your filter that do this amazing job. They colonize the media in your filter, and their success is completely reliant upon it, and the higher the surface area of your media, the greater the efficiency of the filter.

Provided there is a plentiful supply of oxygen and nutrients, and the media is kept free of debris, the bacteria will thrive. There are many kinds of aquarium filter available, although you only need to consider the three main types for your basic set up.

These three types are: Undergravel filtration, Internal filter, and External filter.

The undergravel system consists of undergravel plates that cover the whole of the bottom of the aquarium, these plates are full of small slits that allow water through them. Uplift tubes are inserted into the plates vertically at each end of the aquarium.

The plates are then covered with about 2-3ins (5-8cm) of gravel, the gravel works as the medium. The system can either be air operated, in which case an electrically operated air pump delivers air through a small bore tube, which in turn is placed down the uplift tube. As air leaves the small bore tubing at the bottom of the uplift, it rises in the form of bubbles.

The effect of the bubbles rising in the uplift tube makes the water rise with them, exiting at the top of the uplift at the water's surface, thus creating a flow of water around the system. The water is filtered as it passes down through the gravel and then drawn through the gravel into the flat bottom of the uplift to be circulated again.

The alternative to air operated uplift, and much preferred, are small electric water pumps known as Powerhead. Powerhead sit on top of the uplift tubes and the way that the water is filtered is much the same as the air operated system, however, Powerhead can circulate a much greater volume of water, making them far superior to air uplift.

Indeed, it is this extra power that is necessary for an undergravel system to work well, Powerhead also run much quieter than an airpump. Powerhead vary in size depending on the amount of water they are required to circulate. For a basic aquarium community this should be at least 3 times per hour.

Internal filters are normally smaller than their external counterpart, and generally contain only one filter medium, usually a foam structure. They are powered by pumps similar in design to the previously mentioned Powerhead but usually an integral part of the filter.

As their name implies they operate from within the aquarium, water is drawn into the filter compartment by the pump where it passes through the foam, (this is where the nitrifying bacteria get to work), the water then returns to the aquarium from the pump outlet to be recycled again.

This type of filter is the easiest of all to install and maintain. Before choosing an internal filter as the only means of filtration, think carefully about the size of your set up; remember water quality relies heavily on filtration.

External filter are generally larger than internals and contain at least two mediums, therefore biological capacity is increased, and it is possible to add different mediums to carry out different tasks, thereby being more adaptable to individual needs.

Although based on the same principle as the internal filter, these systems require pressurized plumbing-in and are normally situated remote from the aquarium, such as the cupboard of a purpose built aquarium cabinet. External filters are also available in various sizes, and are relatively easy to maintain, although you should always keep the pipe connections maintained for obvious reasons.

As previously mentioned air pumps can be used in a limited capacity to power an undergravel filtration system, but by enlarge they have been superseded by Powerhead. Air pumps vary in size and your choice would be dependent on the number of features you wanted run, and although a cascade of bubbles rising to the surface may have a pleasing effect on the eye, the main reasons for aeration are rather more practical.

The primary function of an air pump is to inject air bubbles into the aquarium; what you are aiming for is to use a diffuser that produces extremely tiny bubbles. If you have ever noticed bubbles rising in water you will have realized that the larger the bubble, the faster it rises to the surface.

The idea is to have the bubbles rise to the surface as slowly as possible; this then gives the natural process of absorbing the best opportunity to work. The longer take the bubbles to rise to the surface the better the chance of oxygen is being absorbed from them.

However, that is only part of the process; the slowly rising bubbles are also able to carry waste gases, such as carbon dioxide expelled from your fishes, to the surface and into the atmosphere, which in turn reduces its effect on pH.

It is important to note that the oxygen absorbed in this way is only a tiny proportion of the requirement needed for your living aquarium. It is from the surface area of your aquarium water that the most oxygen is absorbed, this is the very reason for having an aquarium with as large a surface area as possible, this gives a greater surface area for any given volume of water, which aids the absorption of oxygen and the "gassing off" effect of the carbon dioxide.

Setting Up An Aquarium - Adding Water To Your Aquarium

When adding water to a new aquarium you can not leave anything to chance, this work must be done correctly or your fish will suffer for it. Preparation is everything, if you do this correctly, you have to make the right first time and without stressed. And if you think that this hobby can not stress to you, believe me, this is possible.
A new bucket kept specifically for your hobby is essential, you do not risk contaminating the water in your aquarium with residues of any pollutant that could be in an old bucket. Prepare your water in the bucket, by adding an appropriate amount of tap water conditioning / dechlorinator to water which is about 76F (25C), which can then be added to your aquarium.
Ideally, water should be siphoned into the aquarium through a tube about one-half inch (13 mm) in diameter, different diameters of tubes available to store water. If you are very careful, you can pour water into the bucket of, or use an upturned saucer or something similar to pour over the water, which avoid disturbing the gravel. Continue until the aquarium is about one third.
If you are using live plants in the rinse water of about 76F (25C) to eliminate unwanted pests. Do not let the plants dry, and at planting to avoid damaging the roots. Potted plants are worth the extra expense because they have already established and less likely to be pulled by a heavy fish.
You can also use artificial plants, they look quite natural and do not require regular size. In both cases, try to position your plants so that the largest of those at the back and shorter forward, creating a beautiful effect and help hide the equipment, and of a natural part of your fish.
Now you can finish filling the tank, in the same way as before, remember to add dechlorinator. You can also add an organic the water, or directly in your filter. Crops are available at your local aquarium, and they will accelerate the maturation your filters (follow the directions on the bottle).
If you use a lid condensation between the surface and the hood, you can put in your aquarium now. After mounting the fluorescent light tube and mounting in the hood, place the cover above the aquarium. Site control unit near the aquarium, but not where it can get splashed by water aquarium.
It is now time to move on, make sure everything's OK, and then leave all to settle for 24 hours before checking the conditions of water and temperature. Do not worry if the water becomes turbid, it is quite normal for this purpose and resolve after a few days, this situation is caused by bacteria harmless and will disappear naturally.
Prepare your fish:
You must leave your aquarium and its filters to mature for at least two to three weeks. Leave all the equipment running as if there were fish in the aquarium, and the habit of passing on the light and outside lighting should be about 8 to 10 hours by day, keep your fish are accustomed to a routine.
Check the temperature of the water after 24 hours and adjust the heater as necessary, retain control all day until the stability of reading 76F (25C) is observed (unless you need a different temperature for all species you want to keep, then adjust accordingly).
You should not add fish until there are enough beneficial bacteria to deal with the waste they produce. The bacteria colonize your filters and all they can cling to multiply and (adding a bacterial culture must start this process).
Use your test kits at their direction in this period, to be sure you have correct readings before introducing fish.
Ammonia: 0 ppm (mg / l)
Nitrite: 0 ppm (mg / l)
Nitrate: 50 ppm (mg / l) or less
pH: 6.5 to 7.5 (for tolerant species)
After a couple of days in May you be misled into thinking everything is OK to enter your fish, because your test results indicate low or no readings, remember, there are no fish at this time to produce Waste to give high readings, what you have to realize is that you're really waiting for your filter bacteria to multiply, ready for the introduction of a fish or two.
Fish waste is rich in ammonia, and even in small quantities, it can kill. Bacteria feed on the production of ammonia and nitrite, which are also toxic to fish, in turn are transformed into nitrates, which are harmless at low levels, this process is known as the cycle of the nitrogen. If you have any fish to introduce soon there will not be enough bacteria to decompose fish "toxic waste.
Check your pH of the water every three or four days to ensure it remains stable. For a tolerant community aquarium species, you should have a reading of pH 6.5 to pH 7.5 After two weeks, or if your test results indicate that your aquarium has stabilized, you can add one or two (more) robust small fish, which helps to feed your filters colonies of bacteria and give the nitrogen cycle a new impetus.

Choosing the Right Fish


An important step to maintain a healthy and successful freshwater aquarium is the right to choose fish. This is an important decision that should be decided before entering a pet store or fish supplier. A number of things you want to consider are listed below:

Pet Store fish health

It is very important to purchase healthy fish. A sick fish will bring to your illness and May reservoir affect the health and life already residing in your aquarium. Make sure the fish swim effort in the store tank pet. Look for sores or discolored or damaged and fins folded. The eyes should be clear, scales should be flat, and breathing should be slow and steady. It is a good idea to try to personally witness feeding fish to make sure he eats easily (another sign of good health). Never buy a fish from a tank that holds dead fish.

Reservoir Qualities

Many fish grow considerably in size as they mature. You must be sure you have enough room for the fish you choose to grow. Also, fish that remain small in May become the prey of larger fish. Research should be done in advance to make sure you have enough space and maintain compatibility between species.

Species compatibility

In addition to size, there are other reasons fish species May not be compatible with each other. Fish course, that schools should be maintained with their own school in your aquarium for maximum health. In contrast, isolation May fish suffer stress by being kept in a crowded tank. In addition, adult males of several species are known to the competition or struggle with other species or even their own. (Siamese against the fish are known to fight among themselves, while marine fish can be territorial

Special Care

Another thing to consider is whether a species requires special care, including being fed live food. Other May be more susceptible to disease or stress. May you want to provide spaces for fish to hide, whether holes between rocks or substrate or decorative objects.

A good rule to follow is to include fish that occupy all levels of your aquarium. Buy early, middle and bottom-dwelling fish that are compatible with one another to maintain an aquarium happy, and make sure you have enough room in the tank for them to grow and flourish. It is a good idea in search of species that are compatible with one another and not be afraid to ask questions at the pet store! A good pet dealer should be able to help you choose the right fish to create and maintain your freshwater aquarium.