When adding water to a new aquarium you can not leave anything to chance, this work must be done correctly or your fish will suffer for it. Preparation is everything, if you do this correctly, you have to make the right first time and without stressed. And if you think that this hobby can not stress to you, believe me, this is possible.
A new bucket kept specifically for your hobby is essential, you do not risk contaminating the water in your aquarium with residues of any pollutant that could be in an old bucket. Prepare your water in the bucket, by adding an appropriate amount of tap water conditioning / dechlorinator to water which is about 76F (25C), which can then be added to your aquarium.
Ideally, water should be siphoned into the aquarium through a tube about one-half inch (13 mm) in diameter, different diameters of tubes available to store water. If you are very careful, you can pour water into the bucket of, or use an upturned saucer or something similar to pour over the water, which avoid disturbing the gravel. Continue until the aquarium is about one third.
If you are using live plants in the rinse water of about 76F (25C) to eliminate unwanted pests. Do not let the plants dry, and at planting to avoid damaging the roots. Potted plants are worth the extra expense because they have already established and less likely to be pulled by a heavy fish.
You can also use artificial plants, they look quite natural and do not require regular size. In both cases, try to position your plants so that the largest of those at the back and shorter forward, creating a beautiful effect and help hide the equipment, and of a natural part of your fish.
Now you can finish filling the tank, in the same way as before, remember to add dechlorinator. You can also add an organic the water, or directly in your filter. Crops are available at your local aquarium, and they will accelerate the maturation your filters (follow the directions on the bottle).
If you use a lid condensation between the surface and the hood, you can put in your aquarium now. After mounting the fluorescent light tube and mounting in the hood, place the cover above the aquarium. Site control unit near the aquarium, but not where it can get splashed by water aquarium.
It is now time to move on, make sure everything's OK, and then leave all to settle for 24 hours before checking the conditions of water and temperature. Do not worry if the water becomes turbid, it is quite normal for this purpose and resolve after a few days, this situation is caused by bacteria harmless and will disappear naturally.
Prepare your fish:
You must leave your aquarium and its filters to mature for at least two to three weeks. Leave all the equipment running as if there were fish in the aquarium, and the habit of passing on the light and outside lighting should be about 8 to 10 hours by day, keep your fish are accustomed to a routine.
Check the temperature of the water after 24 hours and adjust the heater as necessary, retain control all day until the stability of reading 76F (25C) is observed (unless you need a different temperature for all species you want to keep, then adjust accordingly).
You should not add fish until there are enough beneficial bacteria to deal with the waste they produce. The bacteria colonize your filters and all they can cling to multiply and (adding a bacterial culture must start this process).
Use your test kits at their direction in this period, to be sure you have correct readings before introducing fish.
Ammonia: 0 ppm (mg / l)
Nitrite: 0 ppm (mg / l)
Nitrate: 50 ppm (mg / l) or less
pH: 6.5 to 7.5 (for tolerant species)
After a couple of days in May you be misled into thinking everything is OK to enter your fish, because your test results indicate low or no readings, remember, there are no fish at this time to produce Waste to give high readings, what you have to realize is that you're really waiting for your filter bacteria to multiply, ready for the introduction of a fish or two.
Fish waste is rich in ammonia, and even in small quantities, it can kill. Bacteria feed on the production of ammonia and nitrite, which are also toxic to fish, in turn are transformed into nitrates, which are harmless at low levels, this process is known as the cycle of the nitrogen. If you have any fish to introduce soon there will not be enough bacteria to decompose fish "toxic waste.
Check your pH of the water every three or four days to ensure it remains stable. For a tolerant community aquarium species, you should have a reading of pH 6.5 to pH 7.5 After two weeks, or if your test results indicate that your aquarium has stabilized, you can add one or two (more) robust small fish, which helps to feed your filters colonies of bacteria and give the nitrogen cycle a new impetus.
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