Maintain Tank Temperature With A Fish Tank Chiller

As its name suggests, fish tank cooling are designed to keep water in your reservoir of fresh fish in warm climates. They are mainly used in marine aquarium where the fish tend to be very sensitive to temperature fancy goldfish although in tropical climates also benefit from the use of an aquarium cooler. An added benefit is that cooler water has a greater capacity for dissolved oxygen in order to avoid problems with low oxygen levels in your aquarium.

When do you need the aquarium cooler?

An aquarium cooler will be necessary when you run an aquarium with fish who prefer to live in cold water only. Aquarium of chillers will maintain the temperature of the water if you wish. Changing the temperature is something you must do it yourself, manually.

An alternative to a chiller is to launch an air conditioner in the room that contains the aquarium, running but the air conditioning to maintain the aquarium water at the desired temperature can be a very expensive option. And even if an aquarium cooler May seem like an expensive item, it will soon pay for itself if you do not use air conditioning days - especially if you're not at home during the day or you're on vacation.

Another alternative is cooler add ice to the tank, but it's very useful unless it is a very short-term method to deal with conditions of heat wave. If you need to add ice to your tank can be added by water freezing in a bottle. The frozen water bottle can be lowered into the tank or hung on the side of the tank.

For hot climates and for fish that naturally need cold water there is no real alternative but to a cooling unit. It is also possible to buy an aquarium heating and cooling in a unit that can be used year to maintain the water temperature in summer and winter.

When choosing your cooler you will have the choice of thermoelectric, online or declining aquarium cooler.

Thermoelectric coolers are commonly used in small tanks under 60 gallons capacity. They are energy efficient and quiet operation and can be used in both salt and fresh water.

Drop-in coolers are commonly used in saltwater aquariums or whole reefs UPS. They do not require plumbing and others are mounted in line with the tank filter. They are simple to install and low maintenance requirements.

Online aquarium are manufactured for coolers tanks with a capacity of 60 gallons or more. They have an engine, a compressor and cooling fans and will need a well ventilated area for installation. May they require professional installation and are quite large.

A thermometer aquarium is a need inexpensive to use in conjunction with your tank cooler. If your refrigerator breaks down or mismanages the temperature of your aquarium, you need to know immediately. A thermometer is a reliable means of temperature monitory.

The main disadvantages of the aquarium cooling are the cost of the units themselves - which can vary from several hundred to several thousand dollars - and the energy they consume, what can be 80-100 watts per hour.

How To Breed Bettas

Bettas are a member of the family Gourami. The most popular is the Betta Betta splendens (sometimes referred to as the Siamese fish or the fight against Pla Kat in this native of Thailand). They are popular in aquariums because they have a shape / color and are very active. This article will discuss some of the things you need to know and advice for raising Bettas.

Like many cichlids the male Betta is responsible for the education of youth. Bettas are divided into two subgroups according to their method of rearing the Betta Fry. They can be either a mouth brooder or a bubble NESTER. Mouth brooders keep young people in their mouth for safety. Betta splendens are typical bubble nest. The male will create a nest near the water surface. It will consist of bubbles and saliva that is used to give the nest durability and protect the eggs and fry in the future.

The construction of a nest of bubbles is often a sign that the man Bettas are ready to reproduce (but not always). The female is ready to reproduce when his body changes. The abdomen is round and full. The white ovipositor at the end of the oviduct becomes important.

It is generally a good idea to pair breeding in an aquarium. This will prevent other fish in a tank to eat the fry or eggs. It will also allow you to delete the male or female Bettas after livestock, thus protecting each other. Water must have a neutral pH, with a temperature of about 28 deg. Celsius (83F)

Once the pair are men engaging in a vast courtyard. He will try to encourage women to come to bubblenest. Once this happens, it dart on it and they mate. Females release many eggs that float at the bottom of the tank. The male will be the turn of the eggs with his mouth and place them under the nest of bubbles.

The female Bettas can be removed from the tank after mating. The men tend the nest. In about 24 to 48 hours, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia started development and begin to move. You can remove the man at this point.

The larvae develop in the miniatures of their parents after about 3 weeks. In a few months they will be fully developed and can be transferred to other tanks or resold. This is not a good idea to keep men Bettas together because they are fighting. The key to health and rapid growth of fry is to maintain good water quality and temperature around 28 deg. Celsius mark.

The Goldfish Versus The Beta

À la fois le poisson rouge et la version bêta sont des choix populaires pour les animaux de compagnie, et les deux sont soupçonnés d'être un animal de compagnie peu d'entretien. Donc, ce qui rend le meilleur animal de compagnie?

Le poisson rouge est la plus commune pour animaux de compagnie dans le monde. Il a besoin d'un réservoir, mais jamais un juste un petit poisson rouge bol ou petit conteneur. Comme tous les autres poissons, il a besoin d'oxygène, et le poisson rouge regroupe l'oxygène de la surface de sa maison. Surface est le plus important en fournissant suffisamment d'oxygène pour votre poisson rouge.

Mesure la surface en multipliant un réservoir de longueur par sa profondeur. Pour chaque pouce de poisson, vous devriez avoir au moins 30 pouces carrés de surface, et aussi prendre en considération le fait que vous êtes le poisson va augmenter. Assurez-vous d'avoir amplement d'espace et de surface pour votre animal de compagnie poisson rouge.

Goldfish communément vivre au moins dix ans s'il est entretenu correctement. Ils sont omnivores et mangent presque tout. Il est recommandé de s'en tenir à des aliments préemballés poisson, si. Nourrir les poissons rouges pas plus qu'il va manger en quelques minutes. Les restes de polluer le réservoir, il doit donc être retiré après l'allaitement. Nourrir les poissons plusieurs fois par jour au lieu d'un grand repas.

La température de l'eau idéal pour un poisson rouge est partout de 50 degrés à 68 degrés Fahrenheit, de manière générale, l'eau à la température de la pièce est bien. L'eau du robinet est aussi bien pour poisson rouge, mais assurez-vous de laisser siéger pendant la nuit afin que le chlore s'évapore d'elle.

En résumé, le poisson rouge sera amende dans une grande citerne filterless avec la température de la pièce, de-chlorés de l'eau du robinet.

En version bêta est un poisson très commun tenus comme animaux de compagnie. Les mâles sont plus colorés, mais ne jamais plus d'un mâle dans un réservoir. En version bêta sont également dénommé "Lutte contre la Siamois poisson», et les hommes prêts à se battre les uns les autres si conservés dans le même réservoir.

La durée de vie de la version bêta est seulement deux à trois ans, et comme ils sont à l'origine d'un climat tropical, la nécessité Betas réchauffement de l'eau, de préférence dans les années 80. Ils deviendront indifférent lorsque la température de l'eau tombe en dessous de 75 degrés Fahrenheit. L'eau doit également être neutre à légèrement acide de pH, assurez-vous donc de vérifier régulièrement le pH, et de traiter l'eau en tant que de besoin.

Tout comme poisson rouge, versions bêta exiger beaucoup de surface pour l'oxygène. Ils ont des systèmes de respiration qui les obligent à obtenir l'oxygène de la surface, assurez-vous donc de les abriter dans un grand réservoir.

Pour résumer, versions bêta requièrent une attention particulière à leur alimentation en eau. Ils sont bien filterless dans un réservoir, mais l'eau mai besoin d'être chauffé et traités pour le pH.

Bottom line - les poissons n'ont pas besoin de filtres pour leurs chars, mais elles exigent beaucoup de surface pour l'oxygène. Goldfish sont généralement moins d'entretien, car elles nécessitent seulement la température de la pièce, de-chlorés de l'eau du robinet. Exiger des versions bêta de chauffage dans la plupart des cas, mai et exigent également régulièrement des traitements de l'eau pour le niveau de pH.

Globalement, les poissons rouges sont robustes, d'entretien inférieur animal de compagnie qui vivent beaucoup plus longtemps.

Angel Fish A Great Addiction To Any Tropical Fish Tank

Angelfish is one of the most beautiful and beautiful fish. Because of their exceptional beauty, they became the most popular fish among all holders of fish in the world. Angelfish is a fish that is found in the river slowly flowing waters of America. It is perhaps the most recognizable beautiful fish available. Angelfish is a member of the cichlid family and is available in various colors as black, silver, gold and a combination thereof. They have a compressed cylindrical body which distinguishes it from other fish. With its long dorsal fin and became a favorite among the holders of fish.

Aside from research, there are several other factors that promote Angelfish to be one of the best choices among more fish guards. Angelfish is one of the easiest spawning fish to reproduce. It is very easy to feed Angelfish, they can live only on food as flakes, but it is always advisable to keep them on different foods. Brine shrimp, black worms, and mosquito larvae are all major food Angelfish. Frozen blood to help maintain the varied diet live where food is not available.

To keep Angelfish, you need a 30-gallon aquarium or large, depending on the number and size of fish. Going in aquarium angel to always keep in mind that you have gravel that is at least 1 / 4 inch thick and Aquarium is at least 24 inches deep. The deeper the reservoir is the largest angel fish will grow. You will need to maintain the temperature of the water from the aquarium around 70-80 - Fahrenheit.

Although Angelfish is delicate in appearance, but they are reasonably hardy species. At angelfish are sometimes very violent, so while keeping the small fish in the tank, take into account this factor.

Apart from this, angelfish are supposed to be one of the most intelligent fish and they always go together and have the ability to recognize the fish keeper. In general keeping an Angelfish tank is a big plus for the beauty of your home. Angel fish tanks are easy to maintain and joy you have in the maintenance of all Angelfish is long term, if what you seek, go order a tank Angelfish

Goldfish Breeding, Part 2

Fry Development

In the previous article we talked about fish farming laying of the first through 2 -3 months. This article will focus on the development of 3 - 6 months of age.

When goldfish reach the age of 3 months, about 2 to 3 culls have taken place. The initial culling is carried out to remove the fish that have obvious deformities, or do not meet the general requirements race. The slaughter of these steps can be given to people who want to fish, pet, children in the neighborhood, or humanely destroyed. I prefer to give fish, and there appears to be a market of people who would like fish. This process usually takes a little longer, but makes people happy and save fish.

By the age of three months, body and style finnage begin to take their final form. Color will begin to take shape, and although the metal fish can take up to a year for staining to occur. Characteristics of the race (as head of growth, eyes, etc.) will begin to develop.

A fourth slaughter must be carried out at about 4 - 5 months to select the fish to be raised by the deadline. On a clutch of several hundred to several thousand fish, no more than 5 - 10 fish should be maintained for final grow-out. There are several reasons for this low percentage of fish that are selected for grow-out. The main reason is space, it is simply not enough space to raise all the fish are spawned. If not given enough space, the fish will not grow to optimal size. The second reason is the food: raising a large number of fish requires a lot of food. The third reason is water quality, proper maintenance of water is difficult face of big fish. The last reason is genetic: Most fish will have some sort of defect or undesirable feature to display.

By the age of six months, fish are much race variety, but not all the characteristics of the variety will be fully developed yet. Finally, the fish look like their parents.

Goldfish Breeding, Part 1

Each year, as the days lengthen in spring, yellow maturity begin the process of egg production in females, and milt in males. Many of these changes are increasingly triggered by daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and mosquito larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors adds to the evolution of fish.

The changes that occur in goldfish include swelling of the general female, the eggs begin to grow, and the appearance of small bumps, or "root" on the edges of the pectoral fins, and the slip covers for men.

In warmer climates, May goldfish outdoor begin spawning at the end of April, but in most other areas, red fish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fry without apparent indications, especially if the fish are kept in a pond, and a mixed population. For fish kept in aquariums, the signs are present, if the fish is observed.

Spawning takes place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity appears to be triggered by several factors, including: rain on the day preceding the spawning and a drop in water temperature a few degrees, partial water changes and a full or nearly full moon.

Spawning generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs are laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally very small, round and sticky. Please see table below taken eggs in an aquarium interior, to get an idea of the size and remove shape.Please adult fish after spawning, if you want more babies. Adults eat fish eggs (and the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia) after a spawn. Baby fish, once admitted, will not be eaten by fish red at maturity. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach ½ "to 1" in size.

The eggs hatch usually from 4 - 7 days, depending on water temperature. The fry are very small at the time of hatching, and food for the first 3 -5 days in the yellow bag attached. At hatching, and for a period of about two weeks after hatching, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia remains committed to the surface where the eggs were laid, or near the water surface. As their swim bladder begins to operate, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia will start swimming at different levels of the aquarium.

After the fry have depleted their yolk sacks, you should start to feed their food. Start foods can include: newly hatched brine shrimp, boiled egg yolk and infusorians. For people who have an outdoor pool, food can supplement the food that the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is in the pond. For those who have housed the fish in an aquarium, food will be provided by the owner.

After a few weeks, crumbled flake food, small fry food, freeze-dried crumbled into the blood, daphnia and brine shrimp can be fed to fishing. During the early development phase, feed the fish several times a day (may-3 - 5 times a day) in small quantities. It is important to monitor water quality and make regular water changes, as certain foods (especially egg yolk) can lack of water.

Metal fish begin to color, which is to change the nature of the green, 2 - 3 months. For nacreous mat and fish, colors tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous Matte fish and start out with a white color, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing age fish.

If you are raising fry breeding or show, you should select the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia that meet characteristics that you have established in your breeding. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tail tripod (in the case of two varieties tail), and other physical defects can be eliminated or given starting at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics, is known as the "slaughter".

A second slaughter may occur at 8 - 10 weeks and will focus on color and adherence to high standards. 3rd slaughter may be done 3 months, when most fish will begin to meet the special races, such as growth of the head, eyes, development, pearl and scales. It is not uncommon for only 5 - 10% of a rogue to stay third after the slaughter. While some people oppose the idea of giving fish spawn or slaughter, goldfish will not thrive in crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.

That approach fish 2 - 3 months of age, try to feed a larger percentage of live animals, frozen or freeze-dried food. Increasing the protein content in food is necessary for growth and head pearl scales in particular. Avoid food supply floating, which, while good for koi, and not very useful for red fish, especially the double-bodied fish tail. Continued feeding of food because the floating goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, May and disturb fish balance. Sinking pellets or granules of food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen foods.

For those interested to make their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online and GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also included revenue home.

A final culling can be achieved in six months, which will be conducted to select fish to grow and survive the winter. This selection will be based on a combination of compliance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. At the end of the 4th slaughter, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of laying remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.

Koi - The Jewels Of The Pond

With their striking colors, beautiful shape, and graceful movements, Koi are considered the jewels of the pond. From humble beginnings as wild carp, these fish have been domesticated and bred in the famous beauties they are today. Once owned by the rich, are now Koi loved and kept in garden ponds across the world. As the owner of a pond or future Koi enthusiast, you want May to learn to say the fundamental differences between the thirteen types of Koi and distinguish a fish of high quality from a regular, colorful one.

Koi, or Nishikigoi as the Japanese call them, are more than 100 different varieties, but were reduced to thirteen major groups, as indicated above. They are as follows: Kohaku, Sanke-Taisho, Showa-Sanshoku, Bekko, Utsurimono, Asagi Shusui, ogon, Koromo, Hikari-Moyomono, Hikari-Utsurimono, Kawarimono, Kinginrin and Tancho. It is difficult to connect all types of Koi at the beginning, but with practice and determination it will become easier.

Before you can begin to classify Koi you must first know the basic body shape and anatomy of fish. A Koi is usually bilateral symmetrical. What does this mean? If you were to draw a line along the dorsal (upper) end of the tip of the snout to the tip of the tail, the shape of two pieces are the same. Although this is a good character, it is a must in any event Koi.

Like most carp, Koi have barbells, a dorsal fin, pectoral fins, pelvic fins, an anal fin and a tail (tail) end. If a Koi is missing either of these it is considered abnormal and of poor quality.

The head of the fish should be the normal proportion of the body. It should not be very long or short. The mouth should be lower, which means it opens from the bottom, like most fish scavenger.

Now that you know a Koi basic body shape and requirements, you can learn about color variations.

The best known is the Koi Kohaku. Kohaku has light skin (Koi have two basic colors skin, white and blue) with red marks. This is the simple variety to the place and without doubt the most beautiful. A good quality milk white skin and deep red ground. The most admired model is the springboard modes-3-5 red mark resembling a rock track.

Then there's the Taisho Sanke-or short Sanke. It has the same color variation Kohaku (white with red markings) with a third black, a color less obvious. A high quality Snake will be red (with any other color) on his head and an interesting pattern of red and black.

The third is the Showa-Sanshoku, Showa short. It's the same three colors that distinguish Sanke. However, black is the background color and there are red and white it. Showa an ideal has deep black marks and an interesting pattern of red and white.

The Bekko is two color with small black on top of another white, yellow and red are the most common. There are many kinds of Bekko's. The standard is the Bekko-Shiro (white to black.)

Two other colored Koi is the Utsurimono. Like the Bekko, it is black and another color. But black is the main color and there are spots or marks another white, red and yellow.

The Asagi Shusui skin is a blue Koi with white edges and red on the gills, stomach and pectoral fins. They look neat and Germany (Doitsu) scales. The German scales are generally more or imitation leather (not at all scales.)

Koromo are blue with fish scales. There are different types of Koromos such as Aigoromo and Sumigoromo. Koromo The word comes from the word garment. This fish looks like she wears a blue veil wide net or on top of its colors.

A ogon is a Koi with a metallic luster. They are generally white or gold. They must have only one color and have the Doitsu scales. A good ogon is robust with a beautiful muscular structure.

Another is the metallic Koi Hikari-Moyomono. They are a race of the Ogoni and have more than one color.

The Hikari-Utsurimono Koi is a metal which is a cross between the Ogoni and the Showa. They have the color of a Showa-black as the main color, with red and white, but the marks are as bright ogon.

Kinginrin are a shining bright Koi. Do not confuse with ogon which are metallic. Kinginrin have a sparkle in each scale, but not all. They may be with the flash of gold or silver. Koi for an award, it must be at least 20 shiny scales. These are very low Koi Dark ponds because of their exceptional visibility.

Koi are the Tancho with Hi (red) patch on their head. The patch can not be connected to other brands and should be contrasted with a white skin. It can not cover the eyes and is only recognized on the Kohaku, Sanke and Showa variations.

The last variation of Koi is the Kawarimono. In simple terms, they are Koi that do not correspond to any other category. This category was invented in order to sell and shows. Although they are not worth as twelve other varieties, these Koi are very beautiful and an addition to any collection.

These are changes recognized Koi. There is also the butterfly or a fine of Koi. They have abnormally, yet beautiful long fins. This category is not recognized by the Japanese in Koi shows. In the United States, this type is high and sold in large quantities. They are a gracious and welcomed family member Koi.

If you are interested, including those in single fish pond in your garden or willing to learn and keep them as a hobby, it is always good to be able to identify each type of Koi. This will not only help you make an informed decision when purchasing your new friends, but it will also help you appreciate the diversity of Koi even more. Some say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I say beauty is in the eye of the holder Koi!

Aquarium Equipment Explained - Filtration

As a newcomer to the aquarium hobby, you may not be aware that as well as making your aquarium water clear, so that you can see your beautiful fishes, the main task of a filter is to break down the waste that fish produce.

It is the nitrifying bacteria or friendly bacteria that live in the media of your filter that do this amazing job. They colonize the media in your filter, and their success is completely reliant upon it, and the higher the surface area of your media, the greater the efficiency of the filter.

Provided there is a plentiful supply of oxygen and nutrients, and the media is kept free of debris, the bacteria will thrive. There are many kinds of aquarium filter available, although you only need to consider the three main types for your basic set up.

These three types are: Undergravel filtration, Internal filter, and External filter.

The undergravel system consists of undergravel plates that cover the whole of the bottom of the aquarium, these plates are full of small slits that allow water through them. Uplift tubes are inserted into the plates vertically at each end of the aquarium.

The plates are then covered with about 2-3ins (5-8cm) of gravel, the gravel works as the medium. The system can either be air operated, in which case an electrically operated air pump delivers air through a small bore tube, which in turn is placed down the uplift tube. As air leaves the small bore tubing at the bottom of the uplift, it rises in the form of bubbles.

The effect of the bubbles rising in the uplift tube makes the water rise with them, exiting at the top of the uplift at the water's surface, thus creating a flow of water around the system. The water is filtered as it passes down through the gravel and then drawn through the gravel into the flat bottom of the uplift to be circulated again.

The alternative to air operated uplift, and much preferred, are small electric water pumps known as Powerhead. Powerhead sit on top of the uplift tubes and the way that the water is filtered is much the same as the air operated system, however, Powerhead can circulate a much greater volume of water, making them far superior to air uplift.

Indeed, it is this extra power that is necessary for an undergravel system to work well, Powerhead also run much quieter than an airpump. Powerhead vary in size depending on the amount of water they are required to circulate. For a basic aquarium community this should be at least 3 times per hour.

Internal filters are normally smaller than their external counterpart, and generally contain only one filter medium, usually a foam structure. They are powered by pumps similar in design to the previously mentioned Powerhead but usually an integral part of the filter.

As their name implies they operate from within the aquarium, water is drawn into the filter compartment by the pump where it passes through the foam, (this is where the nitrifying bacteria get to work), the water then returns to the aquarium from the pump outlet to be recycled again.

This type of filter is the easiest of all to install and maintain. Before choosing an internal filter as the only means of filtration, think carefully about the size of your set up; remember water quality relies heavily on filtration.

External filter are generally larger than internals and contain at least two mediums, therefore biological capacity is increased, and it is possible to add different mediums to carry out different tasks, thereby being more adaptable to individual needs.

Although based on the same principle as the internal filter, these systems require pressurized plumbing-in and are normally situated remote from the aquarium, such as the cupboard of a purpose built aquarium cabinet. External filters are also available in various sizes, and are relatively easy to maintain, although you should always keep the pipe connections maintained for obvious reasons.

As previously mentioned air pumps can be used in a limited capacity to power an undergravel filtration system, but by enlarge they have been superseded by Powerhead. Air pumps vary in size and your choice would be dependent on the number of features you wanted run, and although a cascade of bubbles rising to the surface may have a pleasing effect on the eye, the main reasons for aeration are rather more practical.

The primary function of an air pump is to inject air bubbles into the aquarium; what you are aiming for is to use a diffuser that produces extremely tiny bubbles. If you have ever noticed bubbles rising in water you will have realized that the larger the bubble, the faster it rises to the surface.

The idea is to have the bubbles rise to the surface as slowly as possible; this then gives the natural process of absorbing the best opportunity to work. The longer take the bubbles to rise to the surface the better the chance of oxygen is being absorbed from them.

However, that is only part of the process; the slowly rising bubbles are also able to carry waste gases, such as carbon dioxide expelled from your fishes, to the surface and into the atmosphere, which in turn reduces its effect on pH.

It is important to note that the oxygen absorbed in this way is only a tiny proportion of the requirement needed for your living aquarium. It is from the surface area of your aquarium water that the most oxygen is absorbed, this is the very reason for having an aquarium with as large a surface area as possible, this gives a greater surface area for any given volume of water, which aids the absorption of oxygen and the "gassing off" effect of the carbon dioxide.

Setting Up An Aquarium - Adding Water To Your Aquarium

When adding water to a new aquarium you can not leave anything to chance, this work must be done correctly or your fish will suffer for it. Preparation is everything, if you do this correctly, you have to make the right first time and without stressed. And if you think that this hobby can not stress to you, believe me, this is possible.

A new bucket kept specifically for your hobby is essential, you do not risk contaminating the water in your aquarium with residues of any pollutant that could be in an old bucket. Prepare your water in the bucket, by adding an appropriate amount of tap water conditioning / dechlorinator to water which is about 76F (25C), which can then be added to your aquarium.

Ideally, water should be siphoned into the aquarium through a tube about one-half inch (13 mm) in diameter, different diameters of tubes available to store water. If you are very careful, you can pour water into the bucket of, or use an upturned saucer or something similar to pour over the water, which avoid disturbing the gravel. Continue until the aquarium is about one third.

If you are using live plants in the rinse water of about 76F (25C) to eliminate unwanted pests. Do not let the plants dry, and at planting to avoid damaging the roots. Potted plants are worth the extra expense because they have already established and less likely to be pulled by a heavy fish.

You can also use artificial plants, they look quite natural and do not require regular size. In both cases, try to position your plants so that the largest of those at the back and shorter forward, creating a beautiful effect and help hide the equipment, and of a natural part of your fish.

Now you can finish filling the tank, in the same way as before, remember to add dechlorinator. You can also add an organic the water, or directly in your filter. Crops are available at your local aquarium, and they will accelerate the maturation your filters (follow the directions on the bottle).

If you use a lid condensation between the surface and the hood, you can put in your aquarium now. After mounting the fluorescent light tube and mounting in the hood, place the cover above the aquarium. Site control unit near the aquarium, but not where it can get splashed by water aquarium.

It is now time to move on, make sure everything's OK, and then leave all to settle for 24 hours before checking the conditions of water and temperature. Do not worry if the water becomes turbid, it is quite normal for this purpose and resolve after a few days, this situation is caused by bacteria harmless and will disappear naturally.

Prepare your fish:

You must leave your aquarium and its filters to mature for at least two to three weeks. Leave all the equipment running as if there were fish in the aquarium, and the habit of passing on the light and outside lighting should be about 8 to 10 hours by day, keep your fish are accustomed to a routine.

Check the temperature of the water after 24 hours and adjust the heater as necessary, retain control all day until the stability of reading 76F (25C) is observed (unless you need a different temperature for all species you want to keep, then adjust accordingly).

You should not add fish until there are enough beneficial bacteria to deal with the waste they produce. The bacteria colonize your filters and all they can cling to multiply and (adding a bacterial culture must start this process).

Use your test kits at their direction in this period, to be sure you have correct readings before introducing fish.

Ammonia: 0 ppm (mg / l)

Nitrite: 0 ppm (mg / l)

Nitrate: 50 ppm (mg / l) or less

pH: 6.5 to 7.5 (for tolerant species)

After a couple of days in May you be misled into thinking everything is OK to enter your fish, because your test results indicate low or no readings, remember, there are no fish at this time to produce Waste to give high readings, what you have to realize is that you're really waiting for your filter bacteria to multiply, ready for the introduction of a fish or two.

Fish waste is rich in ammonia, and even in small quantities, it can kill. Bacteria feed on the production of ammonia and nitrite, which are also toxic to fish, in turn are transformed into nitrates, which are harmless at low levels, this process is known as the cycle of the nitrogen. If you have any fish to introduce soon there will not be enough bacteria to decompose fish "toxic waste.

Check your pH of the water every three or four days to ensure it remains stable. For a tolerant community aquarium species, you should have a reading of pH 6.5 to pH 7.5 After two weeks, or if your test results indicate that your aquarium has stabilized, you can add one or two (more) robust small fish, which helps to feed your filters colonies of bacteria and give the nitrogen cycle a new impetus.

Choosing the Right Fish

An important step to maintain a healthy and successful freshwater aquarium is the right to choose fish. This is an important decision that should be decided before entering a pet store or fish supplier. A number of things you want to consider are listed below:

Pet Store fish health

It is very important to purchase healthy fish. A sick fish will bring to your illness and May reservoir affect the health and life already residing in your aquarium. Make sure the fish swim effort in the store tank pet. Look for sores or discolored or damaged and fins folded. The eyes should be clear, scales should be flat, and breathing should be slow and steady. It is a good idea to try to personally witness feeding fish to make sure he eats easily (another sign of good health). Never buy a fish from a tank that holds dead fish.

Reservoir Qualities

Many fish grow considerably in size as they mature. You must be sure you have enough room for the fish you choose to grow. Also, fish that remain small in May become the prey of larger fish. Research should be done in advance to make sure you have enough space and maintain compatibility between species.

Species compatibility

In addition to size, there are other reasons fish species May not be compatible with each other. Fish course, that schools should be maintained with their own school in your aquarium for maximum health. In contrast, isolation May fish suffer stress by being kept in a crowded tank. In addition, adult males of several species are known to the competition or struggle with other species or even their own. (Siamese against the fish are known to fight among themselves, while marine fish can be territorial

Special Care

Another thing to consider is whether a species requires special care, including being fed live food. Other May be more susceptible to disease or stress. May you want to provide spaces for fish to hide, whether holes between rocks or substrate or decorative objects.

A good rule to follow is to include fish that occupy all levels of your aquarium. Buy early, middle and bottom-dwelling fish that are compatible with one another to maintain an aquarium happy, and make sure you have enough room in the tank for them to grow and flourish. It is a good idea in search of species that are compatible with one another and not be afraid to ask questions at the pet store! A good pet dealer should be able to help you choose the right fish to create and maintain your freshwater aquarium.